Flange type duct joint assembly and seal arrangement therefor

A joint assembly for connecting the ends of a pair of generally rectangular sheet metal duct sections includes a pair of frame members secured to each other and connected to the respective duct end sections. The frame members each include four flange portions. Each flange portion has an upstanding channel shaped leg portion and an angularly extending duct receiving leg portion.

A corner piece connects adjacent flange portions and extends into the channel portions of the upstanding leg portions to form the generally rectangular frame. The end portions of the ducts are inserted into longitudinal openings of the duct receiving leg portions. A flowing type gasket material is positioned in a longitudinal pocket of each flange. The end of each duct wall partially displaces the gasket material so that the gasket material extrudes outwardly around the duct wall and between the ends of the flange portion and the corner piece.

The surface of the corner piece flange portion is displaced from the front vertical wall of the upstanding channel shaped leg portion so that the edge of the duct extends beyond the flange portion and penetrates an outside gasket member positioned on the upstanding channel shaped leg portion and the corner piece. This provides an effective seal to prevent air within the duct from flowing around the end of the duct and between the outer surface of the duct and the surface of the flange portion of the corner piece.

Claims

I claim:

1. A corner piece for connecting a pair of duct connecting flange members comprising,a corner section with a pair of legs extending angularly therefrom,said corner section and said legs having a common front planar surface portion and a common rear planar surface portion,said legs arranged to extend into said duct connecting flange members to form a generally rectangular duct frame for connection to a duct end portion,said corner section having an offset corner portion displaced rearwardly from said common front planar surface portion, and said corner section offset corner portion and said corner section front planar surface being operable to permit a corner edge portion of the duct end portion positioned between the end portions of adjacent duct connecting flange members toproject beyond said offset corner portion into abutting relation with an external gasket means and said corner section front planar surface in abutting relation with said gasket to seal the corner edge portion of the duct.

2. A corner piece for connecting a pair of duct connecting flange members as set forth in claim 1 in which,said offset corner portion has a generally L-shaped configuration with opposite end portions, and said offset corner portion arranged to be spaced above a duct connecting flange duct receiving portion bottom wall.

3. A corner piece for connecting a pair of duct connecting flange members as set forth in claim 1 in which,said offset corner portion has a generally L-shaped configuration defined by a front surface and a rear surface forming an edge portion therebetween, and said offset corner portion edge portion positioned rearwardly of said common front planar surface portion.

4. A corner piece for connecting a pair of duct connecting flange members comprising,a corner section with a pair of legs extending angularly therefrom,said corner section and said legs having a common front planar surface portion and a common rear planar surface portion,said corner section having a corner portion,a flange portion extending from said corner section corner portion, said flange portion having an end portion displaced rearwardly from said common front planar surface portion, and said corner section front planar surface and said flange portion end portion being operable to permit a corner edge portion of a duct end portion positioned between the end portions of adjacent duct connecting flange members to project beyondsaid flange end portion into abutting relation with an external gasket means and said corner section front planar surface in abutting relation with said gasket means to seal the corner edge portion of the duct.

5. A corner piece for connecting a pair of duct connecting flange members as set forth in claim 4 in which,said flange portion has a generally L-shaped configuration with opposite end portions, and said flange portion end portion arranged to be spaced above a duct connecting flange receiving portion bottom wall.

6. A corner piece for connecting a pair of duct connecting flange members comprising,a corner section having a front surface,a pair of legs extending angularly from said corner section,said corner section having a corner portion with a flange portion having an L-shaped edge portion,said flange portion having a front sealing surface arranged to abut an external gasket means to seal the corner portion of the duct, and said flange portion L-shaped edge portion being offset at an angle less than 90° from said corner section front surface so that said L-shaped edge extends rearwardly in a direction from said corner section front surface to said cornersection rear surface.

7. A corner piece for connecting a pair of duct connecting flange members as set forth in claim 6 in which,said flange portion offset L-shaped edge extends along a curved path rearwardly from said corner section front surface.

8. A corner piece for connecting a pair of duct connecting flange members as set forth in claim 6 in which,said pair of legs each has a front surface and a rear surface,said corner section front surface and said legs front surfaces having portions positioned in a common plane to form a common front planar surface, and said corner section rear surface and said legs rear surfaces having portions positioned in a common plane to form a common rear planar surface.

9. A corner piece for connecting a pair of duct connecting flange members as set forth in claim 8 in which,said flange portion offset L-shaped edge is displaced rearwardly from said common front planar surface.

Method of Manufacturing Closure Flanges II

The bonding of the flange 1 to a plastic container wall section, such as a pail head as indicated at 14, is accomplished by inserting the neck of the flange up through the container wall opening 15 which just fits over the enlarged neck pilotportion 7. In FIG. 5 the undersurface of the container wall, prior to bonding, rests on top of the bonding element 13 and just above the ribs 11 and 12.

Induction welding of the flange to the surrounding container wall section commences upon theapplication of a vertical force to the assembly and introduction within the magnetic field of a high frequency induction heating generator. As the thermoplastic resin of the element 13 starts to melt, together with the walls of the groove 10, the ribs11 and 12 also melt, causing the upper surface 9 of the collar 8 and the undersurface of the wall 14 to come together. The rib 12 being further removed from the bonding element 13 tends to melt more slowly, thus forming a dam against the outward flow ofbonding material. As seen in FIG. 6, the result is a permanent homogeneous bonding at the flange container wall interface. It should be noted that the groove and cooperating ribs could also be formed on the undersurface of the flange collar to enablebonding of the flange to the exterior surface of a container wall such as would be required on blow-molded containers.

The bonded flange may then be fitted with a closure plug 16 having a threaded side wall 17 terminating at its upper end in a circumferentially enlarged head 18 designed for gasketing engagement with the flange bead 5. Further protection againstleakage and pilfering can be had by crimping a tamperproof capseal (not shown) about the flange bead 5.

Considering the method herein disclosed for applying the bonding element to the flange, attention is directed to FIG. 7 which shows an applying head 20 mounted on a vertically moveable shaft 21. The head 20 consists of an inverted cup-shapedhousing 22 having a base wall 23 and a depending cylindrical wall 24 terminating in a lowermost locating surface 25. A passage 24a, as clearly seen in FIG. 8, extends angularly through the wall 24 so as to communicate with the housing interior.

The base 23 is formed with a large central opening 26 surrounded by three smaller holes 27. A cutter 28 is nested within the housing 22 having a base wall 29 surrounded by a depending cylindrical wall 30 terminating at its lower end in a shearing edge 31. The shaft 21 is slideably received through the center opening 26 in the housing member base 23 and is secured to the cutter base 29 by nut 32. A cylindrical plunger 33 is slideably mounted within the cutter 28 and has an outwardly opening groove 34formed in its exterior surface. Three screws 35 extend through the holes 27 in the housing base 23 and are secured to the plunger 33. A coiled compression spring 36 surrounds each of the screws 35 so as to resiliently urge cutter 30 and plunger 33apart.

In operation a flange 1 is seated on an anvil 37 positioned beneath the applying head 20. An elongated strand of electromagnetic bonding material 13 is fed into the passage 24a in the housing sidewall 24 and, as seen in FIG. 8, is guided by thegroove 34 around the plunger 33 into an annular form. The head 20 is then lowered down over the flange with the locating surface 25 resting against the upper surface 9 of the flange collar, and with the plunger 33 resting on top of the flange bead 5. Continued downward movement of the shaft 21 overcomes the compression of springs 36 and urges the cutter 28 downwardly relative to the housing and plunger. In so doing the shearing edge 31 is lowered over the passage 24a and severs the strand 13 alongthe interior surface of the housing wall.

As the my 28 continues to move downwardly, it pushes the element 13 ahead of it, forcing the element between the annular upstanding ribs 11 on the flange collar. The final downward movement of the cutter 28 firmly seats the element 13 within theflange groove 10 whereupon the head 20 is retracted upwardly and the parts thereof restored to their initial position. It should be noted that during the downward urging of the element 13 by the cutter 28, the leading cut end 13a and the trailing cutend 13b are lined up in a common axially extending plane as seen in FIG. 10. As a result the strand of electromagnetic bonding material is formed into a complete uninterrupted annulus with the angled surfaces 13a and 13b preventing a detrimentalradially extending gap from occurring at the joint due to minor variations in the strand length.

From the foregoing it is seen how a container closure flange molded of synthetic resin can be very simply assembled with an electromagnetic bonding element for thermoplastic induction bonding to a container openings. The assembly operationdisclosed, while lending itself very well to an automatic or semiautomatic production operation, also contributes to the quality and effectiveness of the bond between the flange and the container wall.

Method of Manufacturing Closure Flanges I

A closure flange molded of synthetic plastic resin has an internally threaded cylindrical neck surrounded at one end by a circumferentially enlarged base. An annular groove is formed on the flange base for retention of a thermoplastic bonding element having electromagnetic conducting particles embedded therein. The flange manufacture includes making the bonding element up from an elongated strand into a complete annulus and securely inserting the annular bonding element within the groove in the flange base.

Claims

Having described my invention, what I claim is as follows:

1. A method of manufacturing closure flanges for electromagnetic bonding to containers comprising the steps of molding an annularclosure flange of thermoplastic synthetic resin, supporting said flange in concentric alignment with an applying head, feeding an elongated strand of electromagnetic bonding material into said head to form an annulus displacing said head and flangetoward each other, cutting said strand into a predetermined length and applying said strand as a complete annulus to said flange as said annulus is discharged from said head.

2. A method of manufacturing closure flanges as in claim 1 and said cutting of said strand within said head forming a lap joint at the strand ends.

3. A method of manufacturing closure flanges as in claim 1 and positively locking said strand onto said flange.

Description

In the manufacture of plastic pails and drums it has been proposed to provide a closure receiving neck thereon by permanently bonding an internally threaded closure flange about a flat opening molded within the container wall. One advantageouslyemployed bonding technique consists of interposing an electromagnetic bonding element at the flange container wall interface. The bonding element is energized by placing the closure assembly within a high frequency magnetic field, causing a melt zoneand resultant bonding at the flange container wall interface.

Heretofore a number of difficulties presented themselves in attempts to refine the above described bonding technique into an efficient container fabricating operation. One such difficulty concerns the need for a production oriented applicationof the bonding element to the groove in the flange base as opposed to a strictly manual operation. Another problem concerns the need for effectively forming a strand of electromagnetic bonding material into a complete and continuous annulus. Any spacegap created at the intended juncture of the severed strand ends may introduce the likelihood of failure in bonding. Once the strand is properly applied to the flange base, the problem arises of securely retaining the bonding element within the flangebase groove during subsequent shipping and handling conditions.

SUMMARY

The closure flange assembly and method of manufacture disclosed by the instant invention advantageously overcomes the above mentioned problems through the formation of a novel groove configuration in the flange base which precludes accidentaldislodgment of the bonding element under the severest handling conditions. The method of manufacture herein disclosed includes feeding the bonding element as an elongated strand into a circular die cavity whereupon closing of the die severs the strandand inserts it as a complete annulus into the flange base groove.

It is, accordingly, a principal object of the invention to provide a new plastic closure assembly for thermoplastic bonding to a plastic container wall opening.

Another object is to provide a method of applying an electromagnetic bonding element to a closure flange to facilitate bonding to a container wall opening through the use of electromagnetic induction.

Still another object is to form an electromagnetic bonding element from an elongated strand into a complete annulus and apply the element to a closure flange so as to be securely retained thereon.

Other and more detailed objects will in part be obvious and in part be pointed out as the description of the invention taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawing proceeds.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWING

FIG. 1 is a part elevational, part sectional view of the closure flange of the invention;

FIG. 2 is an enlarged fragmentary sectional view showing the initial position of the bonding element as it is applied to the flange base;

FIG. 3 is a sectional view similar to FIG. 3 but showing the bonding element fully seated in the flange base;

FIG. 4 is an enlarged fragmentary top plan view of the flange base with the bonding element applied;

FIG. 5 is a fragmentary sectional view showing the flange in position for bonding within a container wall opening;

FIG. 6 is a sectional view similar to FIG. 4 but showing the completed bond and a closure plug in place;

FIG. 7 is an exploded sectional view of the mechanism for applying the bonding element to the flange base in accordance with the method steps of the invention;

FIG. 8 is a view taken on line 8--8 of FIG. 7 and looking in the direction of the arrows;

FIG. 9 is an enlarged fragmentary sectional view similar to FIG. 8 showing an advanced position of the strand of bonding material within the applying mechanism; and

FIG. 10 is a sectional view similar to FIG. 9 showing a further advanced position with the strand severed and formed into a complete annulus.

As seen in FIGS. 1-6, the closure flange 1 is molded of a thermoplastic synthetic resin such aspolyethylene and consists of an upstanding cylindrical neck 2 having an interior screw thread 3. The upper end of the flange neck has a short unthreaded portion 4 and terminates in a circumferentially enlarged bead 5. The exterior surface of the flangeneck 2 has a short section 6 of reduced diameter beneath the bead 5 and is then circumferentially thickened into a lower pilot portion as indicated at 7. An annular collar 8 surrounds the base of the flange neck having an upper surface 9. An annular,upwardly opening, groove 10 is formed in the upper surface 9 spaced radially outwardly from the thickened pilot portion 7 of the flange neck. The mouth of the groove 10 is partially closed off by a pair of annular ribs 11, one at each side of the grooveand extending above the flange upper surface 9. An additional annular rib 12, extending above the upper surface 9, is formed at the outer edge of the collar 8.

The final step in the flange manufacture involves the application of an electromagnetic bonding element 13 to the flange collar for the purpose of forming a thermoplastic bond to a container wall opening. The bonding element here employed ismade up from an elongated strand of thermoplastic material, circular in cross-section and having minute metal electromagnetic conducting particles embedded therein.

The strand is formed into an annulus having overlapping end surfaces 13a and 13b whichform a lap joint and insure against the presence of any radial gap in the bonding zone. As clearly see in FIGS. 2 and 3, the cross-sectional diameter of the bonding element 13 is substantially equal to the width of the groove 10 and slightly greaterthan the closest distance between the ribs 11.

A downwardly directed force applied to the bonding element 13 causes the flexible ribs 11 to open up, allowing the element to enter the groove 10. Subsequent relaxation of the ribs after the element isfully seated within the groove serves to positively retain the element securely in place. The mechanical grip applied by the ribs 11 prevents accidental dislodgment of the element 13 during packing, shipping and handling of the finished flange.

Expertise to introduce flange

Billet of metal (excluding plate) the imposition of external force to produce plastic deformation, changes in size, shape and improve the performance, for the manufacture of machine parts, flange, workpieces, tools or methods of forming the rough.

The type and characteristics of forging

When the temperature is over 300-400 ℃ (steel blue brittle region), to 700-800 ℃, the deformation resistance will be reduced dramatically, the deformation can also be significantly improved. In accordance with the temperature in different regions of the forging, forgings for the quality and the different forging process can be divided into cold forging, warm forging, hot forging three molding temperature region. This temperature region was divided into no hard and fast boundaries, generally speaking, in the recrystallization temperature region is called forging hot forging, non-heating of the forging at room temperature is called cold forging.

Forging at low temperatures, the forging of a very small size changes. The following forging at 700 ℃, the formation of small oxide and surface decarburization phenomenon no. Therefore, as long as the deformation can be in the range of forming, cold forging easy access to good dimensional accuracy and surface finish. As long as the temperature control of cooling and lubrication, 700 ℃ temperature and forging the following can also get very good accuracy. Hot forging, as a result of deformation energy and deformation resistance are very small, complex shapes can be forged large forgings. To obtain high dimensional accuracy of forgings, 900-1000 ℃ temperature in hot forging process with the region. In addition, attention should be paid to improving the working environment of hot forging. Forging die life (forging 2-5 1000,10000 Warm Forging 1-2, 2-5 cold forging 10,000) and other temperature domain is relatively short compared to the forging, but it's freedom, and low cost.

Blank in the cold forging to produce deformation and work hardening, so that forging die under high load, therefore, need to use high-intensity use of the forging die and bonded to prevent wear and lubricating film rigid approach.

In addition, to prevent the billet crack, intermediate annealing necessary to ensure that the needs of the deformation capacity. In order to maintain good lubrication can be carried out on the blank phosphate processing. The use of bar and wire rod for continuous processing, the current cross-section also can not be dealt with lubrication, lubrication is studying methods of use of the possibility of phosphide.

Identify the method of fake and shoddy steel

Prone to collapse and shoddy steel. Fold is formed on the surface of a variety of steel flange line, which runs through the entire product defects are often vertical. Have folded because of shoddy manufacturers high efficiency, large reduction, resulting in sub-ears, rolling on the next have folded, folded products will crack after bending, the strength of steel fell.

Frequent appearance of inferior steel surface phenomenon Ma. Ma rolling groove surface wear due to serious anomalies arising from the uneven surface of steel deficiencies. Inferior to steel manufacturers as a result of the pursuit of profit, often rolling over the rolling groove.

Easy to produce inferior steel surface scarring. There are two reasons: 1. Inhomogeneous materials and shoddy steel products, and more impurities. 2. Materials and shoddy equipment manufacturers guide simple, easy to stick steel, these impurities after roll bite scar easily.

Inferior surface cracks easily because it is the blank adobe, adobe porosity, and adobe in the process of cooling due to the role of thermal stress, resulting in cracks, the crack there after rolling.

Inferior steel scratches easily, because the poorly equipped and inferior materials manufacturers, easy to produce burr, scratch the surface of steel. Depth of scratches reduced the strength of steel.

Non-metallic luster and shoddy steel, cast iron or similar red color, due to 2.2, which is adobe blank. 2, inferior materials rolling temperature non-standard, their steel temperature is visual, so that can not be required to carry out rolling of the austenite region, the properties of steel can not be achieved naturally.

Transverse steel reinforcement and inferior thin and low, are often dissatisfied with the phenomenon of charge, because the big manufacturers to achieve a negative tolerance, finished before the reduction of several large, iron-type small, hole filling dissatisfaction.

Inferior surface of steel oval-shaped cross section, the reasons for the factory owners in order to save materials and finished products of the two pre-roll reduction too, the strength of steel decreased significantly, but does not conform to the standard size rebar.

Uniform composition of high-quality steel, cold high tonnage shear, cut the first face smooth and tidy, and the material as a result of poor materials and shoddy, often there will be cut off the first face of the phenomenon of meat, that is rugged and non-metallic luster. Manufacturers as a result of inferior materials and cut the first few products, end to end will be a great handle.

Inferior steel material containing impurities, and the density of small steel and super-size difference a serious problem, the vernier caliper in the absence of circumstances, it can be weighed to check it. For example, the rebar 20, the national standards set forth in the most negative tolerance of 5% of its length when 9M single theoretical weight of 120 kilograms, its minimum weight should be: 120 X (l-5%) = 114 kilograms , weighing out the actual weight of a single 114 kilograms more than the small, it is inferior steel, because it exceeds the tolerance of negative 5%. Generally commensurate with the volume of the whole will be better, mainly taking into account the accumulated error and the probability of the problem.

Size of the diameter of inferior steel volatile because; l, there are yin and yang steel surface temperature instability. 2, non-uniform composition of steel. 3, due to inadequate facilities, ground-based low-intensity, large bouncing mill. There will be changes in the same week a larger diameter, so that even the reinforced fracture easily.

High-quality printing materials are trademarks and fairly standard.

Three steel diameter of more than 16 threads, the distance between the two trade marks are more than IM.

And inferior longitudinal steel rebar reinforcement often wavy.

The absence of inferior steel flange manufacturers lane, so relatively loosely packed. Oval-shaped side.

MXR M 117R Flanger Pedal for Guitar

If you have been considering buying some effects flange pedals for your guitar, it is likely that you're looking in the wrong places if you are not check out what MXR has to offer. The company makes the best sounding, most well bit, least size consuming pedals on the market and I could not be more pleased with their products. Nearly every single pedal that I have tried sounds top notch. In comparison to competing pedal makers, MXR makes the same products in half the size and they sound twice as good.

The MXR M 117T Flanger Pedal for Guitar is one that you will want the moment you try it out. If you are after a flange pedal, I would say that you can just buy this one on the internet without even trying it out. The pedal's analog modeling offers a tone that is as pure as heaven. Manual, Width, Speed and Regen allow you to interact with playful tones dedicated to expanding the shores of your guitar wash.

You can control the waves with Width. You can make them extremely long and exaggerated or short and punchy. Speed will increase or decrease the velocity at which each wave passes. Regen will act as the effect intensity control. Manual provides a balance for the effect on your signal. Use this to create the ideal mix of flanged wetness with bare dryness.

I think what you will notice about this pedal is that it is silent. So many flange units can cause a hissing noise from you amplifier. In that hissing noise, you will actually hear the wavering flange. For extremely soft parts in dynamic changes, you cannot have a device that does this. It blows your cover. It negates from the work you put in to playing quietly and cautiously.

So many companies are producing effects pedals that are just over the top. When you have devices that have 50 different capabilities and features, it can be great. One thing to pay close attention to, however, is the integrity of each individual effect. There is a special craft in making a pedal sound as good as it can possibly sound. There is merit in having a pedal with crazy capabilities but it should not outweigh the fact that the effects need to resound with conviction. MXR is creating some of the coolest effects on the market and I continue to be amazed at how much clearer they sound than others that make the same bold promises.

Rather than being solely digitized and having a setting that is supposed to sound like analog, MXR takes the high road. Most of their pedals are constructed in full analog for the purest tone possible. It may seem like this is not a big deal. The difference is immense. Picture the difference in quality between a solid state peavey head and a Sunn Model T tube head. The same proportion applies in the balance between digital and analog pedals. Some people might not care. Though once you understand the magnitude of analog effects, you will never be able to have complacence in most digital versions.

The MXR Micro Flanger is a powerful pedal and more compact that any others like it. Due to the awesome, intelligent design, this tiny pedal can fit in any space on your board and provide earthy tones to liven up any part of your songs. The pedal has two knobs for Rate and Regen. Rate will allow you to designate a speed for your flange waves to reappear. Regen will handle the intensity of the effect on your signal.

This pedal has the standard single input and output on either side. It can be powered by an adapter to avoid spending a fortune on 9 volt batteries. The pedal has an LED indicator light to keep you aware of the position the pedal is in. With true bypass, your rig will never lose an ounce of juice because it is impossible for this pedal to detract from it.

A brilliantly tiny, wonderfully affordable, shimmering example of what pedals these days should be trying to replicate!

At $170, it may seem like a pricey investment. Compared to a lot of other flange, this actually is a little steep. I advise you checking on Harmony Central and finding other user reviews. So many folks are boasting about their MXR flanger exceeding ten years of age and still running with strength!

Home Tips: Windows that Don't Feel Cold

Most windows that you buy today have a nailing flange that goes all the way around the window. This allows for easy installation with little to no need for extra caulking flashing or other such extra steps. In other words, installing windows properly is easy. However, you may notice that there is a great deal of trim on the inside of your windows and they always feel drafty and there always seems to be condensation in the winter time. Why is that?

Draft

The air movement you feel in front of your windows usually is not air moving through them if they are newer. That air movement is what is referred to as the "convective loop". This loop is the product of the cold temperature outside convecting through the glass and meeting the warm air of the house. This is the same way wind is formed. Warm air from the ground rises up into the atmosphere meeting with the cooler air in the sky. Anytime you have the meeting two different temperatures, you will get air movement and the beginnings of condensation. The amount of wind and condensation depends on how drastically different the two temperatures are when they meet.

Condensation

This is a product of the glass convecting the cold temperature through it to meet the warm temperature inside. Condensation, if severe enough can be the cause of mold, wood rot and ruin your windows and cause serious health problems in a very short amount of time.

Solution?

There are very few manufacturers that make windows installable in the correct fashion, but actually Any window can be installed to minimize, if not eliminate, this issue.

First, remove the window and nail a 2x4 flush with the inside of the original framing. The new window you order will be the size of the opening between the 2x4's. It will come standard with a nailing flange all the way around the window.

Now nail the window into place by centering it in the opening, making sure that there are shims under the sill, and the window is plumb and level.

You will notice that instead of an extension of the jamb being needed on the inside, there is some space on the outside to cover. You can use cedar or have a local gutter contractor bend you some cap made out of extruded aluminum coil stock. Make sure you caulk the outside and seal the window inside with fiberglass stuffed around the edges, or window/door can foam. Simply Move the window trim to cover the new jamb and paint the drywall where the trim used to be.

You will notice that the window does not condensate anymore and there is not air moving around the window. It must be the window right? Actually no.

The Secret

By moving the window to the inside of the frame, it is directed closer to the warm side of the heating envelope. Because of this warm house temperatures are more prevalent and the warm air convects outside and forms the convective loop on the outside of the house. If there is condensation that forms, it will be on the exterior where the air can properly dry it and take it back into the atmosphere.

This method will not lower your energy bills and will not have any other effects other than removing the convective loop to the exterior of your home and eliminating moisture issues on your windows. There are many other methods of controlling window moisture. For most details on moisture control methods, see my article on HRV units and other Home Tips.

7 Tips for Installing a Shower Base

When you install a shower base flange in your bathroom, you want to be sure that the shower base floor is even, the drain connects to the waste water pipes correctly, and that the entire shower will be waterproof to prevent mold growth. Pay attention to these 7 tips for installing a shower base to create a functional, effective shower for your home.

Make Sure the Subfloor is Even and Level

Install your shower base only on top of a level subfloor. The shower base itself is sloped toward the drain hole to allow the water to exit down the drain smoothly and quickly. If the subfloor is tilted by even as little as an inch, the shower base drain will not work properly and your bathroom could be flooded.

Install Your Shower Base with the Proper Tools and Fasteners

Use only the screws, bolts and nuts from your shower base installation kit to attach it to the subfloor and the stud beam blocks. Changing to different fasteners will prevent a correct fit of the shower base flange and the drainpipe assembly, so your shower will not function correctly. The walls and floor of the bathroom could suffer damage from leaks and spillage.

Attach the Shower Base Flange to the Shower Walls

Place vertical blocks between the wall studs, cut to the height of the shower base flange. Attach the flange to these blocks and make sure it is level at the top. Slip narrow plastic or plywood shims between the metal flange and the wood blocks to ensure a snug, flush fit.

Make Precise Joins for the Drain Pipe Assembly

Use the drain fitting tool supplied with the shower base kit to thread the drain pipe to the drain hole precisely. Fit all washers tightly against the drain pipe nut before attaching the drain pipe assembly.

Cover the Shower Walls with Cement Board Before Tiling

Cement board is a non-permeable solid surface that when placed under tiles in a wet area such as a shower, virtually eliminates water leakage through the tile. It is heavy to install, so have two helpers handy to carry and support the board as you affix it to the wall studs with specially designed cement board screws. Insert the screws to just below the surface of the cement board to allow for level tiling.

Caulking and Grouting

Take great care with caulking and grouting to create a smooth, easily cleanable surface inside the shower. Match the color of the silicone caulk to the tile grout to make the shower walls and floor appear to be a seamless unit. Apply the caulking with a good-quality caulking gun to do the job as neatly as you can. Use a slender putty knife to grade the caulked surface to an even thickness.

With attention to these details, you will build a durable, functional shower that you will enjoy using for many years.

Tile the Shower Walls from the Floor Up

Laying tile on the walls from the floor upward will minimize the gap between the cement board wall and the shower flange top. You will fill this gap with silicone caulking later.

Trying to Replace Shower Arm

I'm trying to replace the shower head and arm with a new one without having to do too much.I live in an apartment.I was trying to unscrew the arm and it doesn't budge. The flange that goes into the wall isn't spackled on tightly.

So, it was easy to lift the flange and see that the arm going into the wall is covered with white spackle or something.I'm not sure what to do about this. Should I remove the spackle or whatever it is and then unscrew the shower arm?

It may be a water-based 'tub caulk' that set up and got brittle. They used that on the backside of the flange to keep the flange from falling away from the wall.

Some of the more expensive flanges are thicker and have a set screw in them. The cheaper ones are just friction fit, but often do not stay put. If that is the caulk I am thinking of, it has a reaction with moisture and turns into concrete. It is so tough to remove that if it is on a porcelain tub, it can actually take off the porcelain when you try to scrape it off! Take a guess how I know.

Try stabbing it with a sharp instrument or pointy nail and see if it is at all spongy. If not, you have some jackhammering to do, before you will be able to unscrew that arm.

The strange thing is it's not just around the flange; it's around the arm and the wall itself. The stuff around the flange was pretty goopy when I by hand removed the flange.

I just checked again. It's a little mushy but pretty firm; it looks like it's wrapped. The problem is it seems to go way into the wall. Well far enough that I can't see where the end goes!

Maybe I should just forget about replacing the arm. I was doing it for cosmetic reasons.

I've decided to leave it alone. Yep; I don't want to have to ask the landlord to come up after damaging something. A great guy and I don't want to put something else on his shoulders!

Thank you for your response though.

The arm is okay.It seems to me that there was duct tape around the arm; I guess it was to keep the flange from falling off which I don't see happening and also there aren't any leaks in the arm itself. Oh well, I cleaned it, with vinegar too; It's fine. I notice a tiny bit of corrosion but since overall it's just dandy, I'm not going to mess with it.

Any recommondations for how to make it stick fully to the wall again? I notice some excess water-based "tub-caulk" at the edge of the flange I may want to remove to make it look better. But it seems to me that the reason there is some caulk at the edge is because there is some open space there that the flange itself can't hide.

This shower is old and so I assume the reason there's so much of the caulk is to prevent leakage of any kind. It makes sense; until something needs to be replaced LOL.

However, the new showerhead seems to have much better water pressure which is great because I had to alert the landlord that the diverter wasn't working; the knob and flange came off (this is a three-knob shower; div being the center knob)... the result was water came through the tub faucet and through the shower as well when the knob was twisted one way; and when it was twisted the other way, completely out of the faucet.

The plumber I think did something with the diverter and sealed it all and the knobs work okay. But the problem was the water was still leaking a little bit from the faucet when it should be coming completely through the showerhead. The showerhead had much less water pressure.

In the future I may reapply the flange though as I loosened it to see what was behind it.The new showerhead's pressure seems to be really an improvement and the water coming out of the faucet is minimal. so I'm pleased with the way things turned out.

Digitech X Series Turbo Flange Pedal

Coming up with the right effects pedals to bring edge and personality to your sound is something that requires patience. It takes research, trial and error, and money to be able to figure out which pedals are going to suit you best. Flange is a cool way to add some richness to your guitar sound but it it is never easy figuring out which company provides the best value and which pedal is going to provide the most appropriate sound for you.

I think my personal favorite units are the ones created by Electro Harmonix. But after having worked in a music store for many years, I had the opportunity to try all kinds of flange units. I also spent, what some would consider, an exorbitant amount on those flange models. So here, Digitech offers a pretty respectable model for a smaller chunk of change. The Digitech X Series Turbo Flange is a stereo, 7 mode flanger effect. You can get a lot of richness from this one without taking a fat bite out of your wallet.

This pedal offers a lot more variety than I am typically used to seeing from Digitech. I do not think anyone can complain about this in a flanger unit. Variety cannot hurt in a pedal that is so singular in its direction. The first knob is for Speed. This will adjust the pace the frequency in which each wave length comes and goes.

To dial forward will achieve a direct quickened rate. Dialing way back will create a ton of atmosphere and fog out your guitar sound in a great way. Depth will mix the amount the effect has over your standard signal. Run this to ten to get full flange sounds. Bring back to 3 or 4 to mix flange with your dry signal. Regen will increase the intensity and stamina of the flange. The last knob is Type. This has seven selections and will let you choose any mode. These are Voice 1, Voice 2, Invert 1, Invert 2, Trigger Up, Trigger Down, and Step.

Effects pedals are a great way to expand and maximize tonal variety. Pedals can take even the best guitar players and transform their musical identity into something individual and tasteful. It is fortunate to be a player in the age of electronic equipment and devices. It has become easier than ever for any and all players to access awesome effects and do only a small amount of work to achieve music personality that can run forever. I have worked in music stores for a long time and have been fortunate enough to try almost all the major units on the market. The Ibanez CF7 Chorus Flange pedal is a pretty neat unit. This is probably not one that you would be after if you are a boutique collector. However, if you are a player that just needs some variance in your sound and cannot afford to spend a ton of money, this pedal will do you a solid.

The unique thing about this pedal is that it is a chorus and flange hybrid. The effect combination creates something magnificent and fresh. There are four knobs on the front of the pedal. The adjustments can be made by dialing the Speed, Depth, Delay Time and Regen buttons. Speed is going to adjust the pace of the wavering that happens with both chorus and flange. This effect can do it all. From gaseous and uncertain lengths to pitter-patter racing, you are covered. Depth will act as a leveler to determine how saturated you want your original tone to be with the effect. Delay time will clip the distance that it takes for the effect to resonate before trailing off. Regen will adjust the burst of waves that ring from each strum. The pedal also has two switches. Mode selects either chorus or flange. Krazy selects either Normal or Wack'd.

This is yet another awesome pedal from Ibanez with the "Tone-Lok" technology. By being able to hide your knobs inside the pedal by sliding inward, you are able to permanently store your settings until you want to change them. The dials will remain safe and unbroken forever. This is a great help and exhibits stern forward thinking.

As you can see, this unit offers a huge capacity for manipulating your flange range. This is a really cool unit and sounds respectable and clear. $80 is a fair price tag for this model.