Flange is Flush With the Top of the Floor

Waterproof membranes to showers This is probably the largest of the observed failures mentioned in this article in my opinion. If a shower leaks this can cause heavy damage to the timber wall frame via wood rot and water damage. In masonry wall long term moisture leaks into the surrounding walls can lead to fretting of the masonry brick walls and render. In a metal wall frame heavy rusting can occur.

In a timber wall frame long term leaks into the shower walls can also cause swelling of the wall cladding and wall tiles debonding and cracking. In a masonry wall the high moisture levels can lead to the tiles cracking and or debonding off the walls.

The BCA (Building Code) requires silicone to the internal wall corners of a shower and many tilers still grout these areas which leads to cracking as the grout is rigid. The BCA also requires an angle to be installed at the wall floor junction in the shower and in many instances this is not installed.

Many waterproof membranes are not installed correctly or the wrong materials are used.ie Bitumen membranes to showers which leach into the grout, liquid membranes not reinforced with polypropylene gauze fabrics. Etc.

Asbestos

Most homes built before 1988 would have some cement asbestos based cladding in the house. Property Protect can carry out a survey to identify this based on our opinion only in our premium report. This can only be verified by analysing samples under a microscope in a laboratory so any survey is based on our opinion only and would need to be confirmed by the Lab. Our premium report does not analyse the samples in a Laboratory.

If this material is disturbed by grinding, drilling or cutting it can be fatal. Areas where it can be found in a house include.

-Backing sheet for the power board -Old floor coverings -Eaves cladding externally. -Wet area cladding Etc.

Discussion

In terms of the remedies to the failures identified above these are as follows.

Slab edge wetting

This can quite easily be solved by stopping the transfer of moisture horizontally into the slab by placing an impervious membrane between the paving and the footing or directly onto the full depth of the footing. Plastic, waterproof membranes (Liquid or sheet) are the best remedies.

Salt damp

This can be repaired by forming a new Damp Course by undersetting (removing bricks and inserting a new plastic membrane) or chemical injection (Silane siloxane injection) where the Damp Course has failed. Where the paving bridges the damp course the paving should be lowered. If render bridges the Damp Course the render can be removed.

Breacher piece failures

In this instance generally four off wall tiles, the affected render and the original fitting are removed. The reverse is then carried out with new materials.

Brick Growth cracks

This form of cracking can be stopped by forming control joints in the wall above the windows and doors to allow the bricks to expand from long term moisture absorption.

Terracotta roof tiles

Generally if these tiles are fretting at the laps they should be removed and then replaced with new concrete roof tiles or metal roof cladding.

Concrete Cancer

The only way that this can be repaired is by physically removing the affected concrete fully exposing 360 Degrees of the bar, placing saw cuts , grit blasting steel, prime steel with zinc cold galvanising, prime and then replace concrete with a polymer modified shrinkage compensated repair mortar. In order to stop contaminants (Chloride ions and carbon dioxide) entering the concrete, a coating (Acrylics) should be applied to stop water and contaminant ingress. This is applied after the repair is carried out.

Trees

Once minor damage to homes has been caused generally it is not viable from a financial perspective to carry out major repairs. In some instances this may happen but this is rare. If a wall has dropped from soil shrinkage the most common rectification is to under pin the footing. This involves excavating under the existing footing, propping, pouring a new footing and then grouting between the new and existing footings. Under pinning is very expensive.

If trees cannot be removed a trench approx 2m deep can be dug between the house and the tree and then lined with an impermeable root fabric to stop the tree roots growing under the house.

Stormwater damage

If the gutters and downpipes are leaking they should be repaired and or replaced. In most instances these elements do not drain out to the street. If this is the case the stormwater should be diverted out to the street via stormwater pipes.

Lack of Paving.

The essential elements to control cracking in older homes is to keep the soil around the footing in a stable moisture range. This can be achieved by installing paving .It is important however to water gardens consistently during summer for a fixed duration and intervals in areas adjacent to the paving. This keeps the soil moist adjacent to the paving (Best to use an electronic watering system).

Older style wiring In order to stop the chance of an electrical fire, older wiring should be removed and replaced with new PVC wiring together with the installation of earth leakage circuit breakers.

Leaking pipes

In order to check if existing pipes are corroding a plumber can pressure test the pipes or use a CCTV system. Generally any older steel or lead pipes should be removed and replaced with PVC however this can be expensive as concrete floors need to be jack hammered to access the pipes.

Cracks in walls

Generally the best way to control movement is to articulate a house. This allows it to move by installing wall control joints above windows and doors and slip joints between the hard plaster and the brickwork. To form a slip joint remove render, install mesh onto bricks and replaster with a lime rich mortar. A lime rich mortar is used to reduce the cement content and hence the rigidity of the render with a 1 cement, 10 sand and 2 parts lime mortar).

In relation to soil shrinkage cracks a number of soil engineers in Adelaide have instigated the direct injection of water into the soil around the footings to the external perimeter of homes (Mainly to Parkside). This keeps the soil in a stable moisture range via the computer controlled injection of water into the soil.

Roof Frame failures

In most instances roof frame failures are easy to rectify by propping the sagged or damaged area and either lapping the member either side with new timber or inserting additional props (The props generally run from the under purlin to the internal wall). In the case of gang nail failures lapped timber bolted either side of the affected timber can also solve this defect.

White ant failures.

Ants can be prevented from entering a house via chemical sprays , Ant caps (Stumped homes) or stainless steel mesh barriers (Termimesh). If existing homes are infested, the homes can be sprayed with chemicals or have bait stations inserted placed around the external perimeter of the home which are literally baited with poisoned timbers (Sentricon system).

Property Protect does not carry out a survey for white ants in our pre purchase inspections and we would advise that you engage a pest controller to do this.

Poor workmanship In each instance the work should be carried out as per the requirements in the BCA ie.

-Weep holes During rendering cut the render out of the weepholes

-Bricks Overhang footing Set out floor slab correctly.

-Render bridges damp Course Cut a horizontal line in the render over the DPC

-Concrete slab poured up against bricks Ensure that the i.e. porch slab is poured up against the edge of the main footing.

-Membrane to showers Ensure that the membrane is installed in accordance with the BCA.

Conclusions

The bulk of the causes of Building failures as detailed in this cast study are due to changes in the moisture conditions in the soil around the footings due to seasonal change. The remedies discussed revolve around keeping the soil in a constant moisture state. The measures discussed include installing paving and electronic garden watering systems, diverting stormwater away from the house, ensuring plumbing does not leak, Keeping tree roots away from footings and articulating older homes to enable them to move.

Of the remaining failures many are due to poor maintenance and or construction techniques. Ie Damp Courses bridging paving (Non BCA compliant) can cause white ant infestations and or Salt damp.

Puddle flanges Ensure that the flange is flush with the top of the floor. The timber/concrete needs to be rebated down to allow the flange to sit flush with the floor.

Common Causes For Residential Building Failures

Overview

This document has been written to give clients of Property Protect an understanding of the most common types of flange building defects that can be found in buildings whilst doing an AS 4349.1 inspection. This list gives the reader a basic outline of the more common defects and the reader should be aware that there are literally thousands of forms of building defects. The items which we have listed are the more common ones only.

Abstract

The report lists some of the more common residential building failures including the causes based on the case studies carried out by the writer as a licensed Builder. The writer has also included some of the causes of the failures.

Purpose

The purpose of this report is to give the reader a summary of the types of residential building failures and the suggested remedies to these defects.

Method

This report is presented as a case study based on the experience and personal records of the author over the last 15 years as a licensed Builder.

Findings

A large proportion of structural building failures listed in this report have in my opinion been caused by the mismanagement of stormwater around houses leading to movement in the homes. The remainder of the failures are caused by poor building practices and or poor maintenance.

Introduction

The most common forms of Building failure noted during AS 4349.1 house inspections by the writer in Adelaide are as follows.

Slab Edge wetting

This is the horizontal ingress of moisture and salts in solution from the soil which enter into footing edges through the capillary action (Suction caused by the concrete) of the concrete. It is caused by a number of factors including, Concretors pushing down the Fortecon membrane with edge forms prior to pouring a floor slab, relatively poor cement concrete in the footing (Many engineers have called for 32 MPA concrete to resist the ingress of salts in lieu of 20 to 25 MPA currently used), Concrete over pours caused when concretors edge forms are not placed low enough to stop a horizontal over pour which can lead to water ponding on the top face of the over pour creating a pool of water. The final cause is the lack of a plastic membrane to be placed between the paving and the footing edge.

The damage that can be caused though this problem includes, mould and rotting to the underside of floor coverings internally and the fretting of the concrete through the salt attacking the cement matrix through a hydraulic action both internally and externally. (Salt crystals expand inside the concrete matrix thereby causing it to fret and crack).

Rising Damp in walls

This is a similar problem to Salt damp detailed below. The main difference is that Salt damp is generally a 90 to 100% break down of the Damp Course in the wall whilst rising dampness is a partial failure of the Damp Course and the partial failure generally means that the damage to the masonry wall is not as bad as Salt damp. There is a good chance that rising dampness may be found in most pre 1950 homes and the Rising dampness could be limited to erosion of the mortar joints by as little as 1 to 2 mm from its original face. The treatment is the same is Salt damp.

The client should be aware however that in most cases the rising dampness is not treated as the erosion of the masonry is very slow and it may have taken 50 years for the mortar to erode 4mm deep from the face of the brickwork. I would advise clients to monitor this if the damage is not major.

Salt Damp in Walls

This is caused through the vertical ingress of moisture and salts into a wall which can lead to the wall fretting and not being able to take structural loads. The damage caused to the masonry is from the salt crystals inside the masonry expanding leading to the bricks and or mortar fretting. In some cases the salt damp can render the masonry unstable.

It is caused by a number of factors including the full breakdown of the damp course (Pre 1910 homes had pitch or bitumen between the footing and bricks and this becomes brittle with age), paving and or render bridging the damp course also causes this.

Breacher piece failures in showers This is where the breacher piece fails through metal fatigue via thousands of heat cycles inside the wall (This is where the hot and cold water meet inside the wall in the shower). Water then flows into the walls. Generally a breacher piece will fail in a shower every 25 to 30 years or so and it is quite common. A tell tale sign of a breacher which has been replaced is two off different tiles to the walls of the shower.

During inspections carried out by Property Protect the company carries out a survey of the wet area walls in its premium report using an electronic moisture meter to identify this defect. High moisture levels to the walls next to the shower generally indicate that it is leaking.

Brick Growth

Cracks in walls Older homes can have brick growth cracks which usually occur at the end of a wall in a vertical plane. Clay bricks will actually expand as they are porous. If a house does not have control joints in the wall the bricks can exert a compression load on one another leading to cracking.

Terracotta roof tiles

Fired clay roof tiles will fret when exposed to moisture for long periods of time and this generally occurs at the laps of the tiles. The tiles can also fret in seaside environments due to salt attacking the tiles. It is not uncommon to see these roof tiles fretting to the laps on the underside of the roof tiles. As these tiles age they can also become very brittle and are easily cracked.

In most instances when the tiles are fretting they will need replacing within the short term. Concrete cancer in footings and precast concrete lintels. This occurs when the steel bars inside the concrete rust due to moisture/salt/Carbonation ingress into the concrete. As the bars rust they expand causing the concrete to crack. This can cause cracking in the surrounding concrete elements. The client should be aware that it is very expensive to repair this defect.

Tree damage

Although some tree roots can cause hydraulic damage from the roots physically moving the building element, most Building failures are caused by the tree withdrawing moisture from the soil. This then leads to the soil contracting which can cause Building elements to drop or move.

In a large number of inspections over the years the writer has observed walls and footings dropping or moving due to soil contraction when a tree is too close to the base of a wall. In most instances the writer would advise clients to keep large trees well away from the house. If this is not possible an impermeable root fabric can be used to stop the tree roots growing under a house.

Stormwater damage and Soil movement

This is caused when gutters, stormwater pipes and downpipes overflow/leak causing the soil around and under the footing to be saturated. Once the soil becomes saturated it then loses its ability to take load and the soil can collapse leading to the Building element dropping or moving. In some instances reactive soils can expand also leading to cracking. This then places uplifting loads on a house which can lead to significant cracking and movement as well.

In Adelaide reactive (fine soils such as clays) can be found at the base of the foothills where fine silts run off the hills. The fine reactive soils can generally be found in Rostrevor, Athelstone and Campbelltown.

Lack of Paving around the external perimeter. This can cause expansion and contraction in the soil around the footing leading to movement in the Building. ie Expansion in soil after heavy rains and contraction in the soil in the summer. In some instances the contraction of the soil under the footing (on the external portion) can lead to the footing rotating on the external side as it drops. The author has seen many instances of this occurring and this leads to the whole wall leaning out or in. (Bows out at the base and then leans in at the top). In these instances the wall generally needs to be pulled down and rebuilt.

In many of the Property Protect reports you may see a note detailing seal gaps at the footing paving junction. Many houses inspected by this company have gaps at this junction and this can allow moisture to enter both under the house and also under the paving. Where the water enters under both elements it can erode the soil away and or cause the soil to either expand or contract. In this instance the gap should be sealed off with a flexible sealant.

Older style wiring.

The author has seen electrical failures from the following during inspections over the years., -Canvas coated and vulcanised rubber power cables. In the first instance the canvas can be eaten by rodents or just physically ages leading to the cables being exposed which can result in fires. The same can happen with older rubber cables which can split.

-Power cables not in conduit in contact with steel frames. I.e. If the cables are damaged the frame becomes live. A number of houses over the years have been inspected by Property Protect and found to have new wiring in all areas of the house but not inside the existing hard plaster. During the premium house inspections this company uses a high powered torch to identify wall patches and chases to the walls. An existing house without wall chases above the light switches and power points would generally indicate that the original wiring has not been removed. In this instance Property Protect would advise the client to engage an electrician to carry out a survey of the house to confirm if the wiring is original to these areas. Hard plaster cannot be removed during a house inspection as the vendor would not generally approve this.

Leaking pipes in wet areas This is generally caused through corrosion of lead or galvanised steel waste pipes under or in floor slabs. As the pipes corrode this leads to a leak which can wash away sub fill in a floor leading to the floor and or footing dropping.

This is very expensive to repair as generally the pipes are cast into the floor slabs in the wet areas and they need to be jack hammered up. This is a common defect as a large number of houses in pre 1970 properties have galvanised steel pipes cast into the floor slabs. For these steel pipes it is not a matter of if but when the pipes need to be replaced . Having stated this steel pipes although not draining as well as they should do can function for many years until funds can be found to replace them.

If you have steel waste and or water supply pipes in a pre 1970 house and you are contemplating a wet area renovation with new tiles etc we would strongly advise you to remove the steel pipes prior to the renovation.ie If you renovate the wet areas without removing the steel pipes a failure of the pipes could result in you having to re renovate the wet area at great cost again!

Cracks/Movement in walls

Movement in any home is hard to control. In most instances cracks are caused by changes in soil moisture levels around the footing although trees can also cause significant movement. Horizontal cracks can occur in walls if a window lintel sags or if a footing/wall drops.

Diagonal cracks radiating away from window and or door heads are the most common form of cracks. Lateral movement cracks can occur with a shear load if a footing rotates (Drops) on one side. Due to Adelaide's dry climate soil shrinkage related cracking in homes is causing many problems. This leads to footing settlement (Dropping of the footing) and cracks in all building elements.

Roof frame failures

The first type of failure is for an older style roof which does not have under purlins and or struts. In this instance the failure is generally from the frame not being able to take the dead loads from the weight of roof tiles. It is common to see the frame sag heavily and split and this instance repairs may need to be carried out. If a roof frame is sagging from the weight of the roof tiles and the timber frame is not splitting or showing any signs of stress our advice to you is to closely monitor the roof frame.

In the second instance the writer has seen heavy splitting to timber around defective gang nail trusses manufactured in the 1970's. In some instances the trusses could not take roof loads and sagged.

White ant attack

Property Protect does not carry out a survey for white ants in our inspections and we would advise that you engage a pest controller to do this. White ant attack is a very common problem in Buildings with the ants literally eating any form of timber in a home. As the timber wall frame is load bearing in a brick veneer home this can led to structural failures. The ants will normally enter a home where voids are close to the ground. One example of an entry point is where the paving bridges the Damp Course allowing ants to enter a wall cavity through weep holes (i.e. the paving is poured above the Damp Course in the wall).

A second example is where garden beds are placed up against walls without any paving and in this instance we would advise on removing the garden bed and then installing paving all around the house.

Poor Workmanship

The following defects are caused by poor workmanship which does not comply with the Building Code. -Render in brick wall weep holes This stops condensation from draining out of a cavity. The writer has seen fretting render caused by blocked weep holes. -Bricks overhanging the footing. BCA allows a tolerance but in many instances concreters' set out the slab incorrectly. As the wall is not supported the bricks can bow out.

-Render bridging wall Damp Courses In many instances plasterers do not strike a horizontal line through render which can result in ground moisture and salts rising up into the wall by passing the Damp Course. This can cause Salt damp in a wall.

-Concrete slabs poured up against brickwork. In some instances around porch slabs builders sometimes place the Damp Course one brick course above the footing and pour the porch slab up against the first course of clay bricks. In this situation clay bricks are not designed to be exposed to ground moisture and salts for extended periods of time and this leads to fretting of the bricks.

This is sometimes seen in older houses and it is hard to fix this if the fretting of the walls is heavy. Subject to a site visit sometimes the best option in this instance is to jackhammer up the floor slab and then repour the concrete below the Damp Course. At the end of the day this is an expensive problem to rectify. The writer has seen this in many garages in pre 1980 houses.

Puddle flange to wet areas not installed correctly. Puddle flange are designed to drain any water caught between the waterproof membrane and the floor tiles. In some instances the flanges are laid proud of the floor and the trapped water cannot drain into the waste pipe. In a second floor building this ponding water can bypass the membrane leading to the timber floor swelling and door, wall and window frames jamming up from compression loads. If this has occurred it is very expensive to repair.

How to Install Windows With Out Any Flanges

If you really want to know the secrets about how to install windows without any flange on them, I would advise you to contact the window manufacturer for instructions. That's the best advice I can give anyone who is thinking about installing windows that they're not familiar with.

I was working on a whole house renovation one time, when the windows finally arrived and I noticed that they didn't have any window flanges on them. The contractor that I was working with figured that we would just install them and not worry about it. That didn't sit right with me, because we had been having problems with building inspectors and the installation of windows for quite some time now.

I finally convinced the owner of the house and the contractor to contact the company who they purchased the windows from. This was a local lumber yard who sold quite a bit a windows from different manufacturers. I thought they would give us a simple answer or provide us with a pamphlet on how to install these windows, but they didn't know themselves or have any information.

The truth is, the lumber company didn't want to take any responsibility for the window installation, so they contacted the window manufacturer and they sent out a representative to solve our problem. The day finally arrived when five men came to visit the job and explain to us, how to install the windows that their window company had made.

This didn't do us any good, the only person who had any idea about how they could install these windows properly, was me and the contractor I was working with. We explained to them that we needed written instructions so that the warranty for the windows wouldn't be voided.

This got their attention, because they thought that they were dealing with amateurs and if this was the case and we would have installed the windows our way, the warranty could have been voided.

Flange is related to the phasing effect produced by a, well, phaser effects unit. It is produced when two identical signals are mixed together, with one of the signals time-delayed by a small and gradually changing amount. The amount is usually equal to or less than 20 milliseconds. Peaks and notches are produced in the combined frequency spectrum, related in a linear harmonic series. Part of the output signal is fed back in and resonates, intensifying the peaks and notches. This effect was originally generated with 3 three headed tape machines. Two of the tape machines would play the signal, obviously somewhat out of synch, and the third tape machine would record the output. The modern version of the effect is created using DSP (digital signal processing) technology.

There is only one way to install windows and it really doesn't matter if you have flange on them or not, that's to make sure that you install them per window manufacturer's instructions. If you choose to install them a different way, you could find yourself having problems, with any warranty in the future.

Flange and Flued Bellows Expansion Joints

Flange and flued bellows can be the right answer to piping, ducting and vessel thermal growth problems over that of conventional thin walled metal bellows.

The advantages of a heavy convolution (with thicknesses up to 1/2") is its ability to hold up to mechanical damage. Dents and gouges create stress risers in thin bellows which results in fatigue cracks over time. Cracking of any type is very difficult to weld repair on thin bellows (typically .06" wall or thinner) but can be performed with plant maintenance staff on heavy walled bellows.

The thicker wall also hold up better to corrosion attacks - an added benefit is the common use of carbon steel material which is almost never used on thinner bellows in lieu of stainless steel or nickle alloys. drain couplings can also be added to the bottom of the flanged and flued convolution to prevent a build up of condensate.

The most common application for flanged and flued expansion joint is ASME code heat exchangers, and is the preferred bellows of choice as the movement is exclusively axial. The heavy walled, deep convolution is durable, and should last the life of the exchanger. The down side to the heavy wall design is the increase in stiffness which can over-stress the heat exchanger tube sheet.

Many engineering firms have banned the use of thin walled bellows expansion joints in process piping due to fear of field misapplications that may result in a failure. With a flanged and flued bellows those fears are unfounded as the heavy wall is about as fool proof an expansion joint as can be expected.

There are many different flange standards to be found worldwide. To allow easy functionality and inter-changeability, these are designed to have standardised dimensions. Common world standards include ASA/ANSI (USA), PN/DIN (European),[1] BS10,[2] (British/Australian), and JIS/KS (Japanese/Korean).

ANSI designations such as ANSI 150, ANSI 300 and so on are often followed by a # (hash symbol). The ANSI number does not directly relate to a pressure rating, but to a class of flange. For example, the hash (#) or 'pound' reference; e.g. 300 pound, can be misleading in that an ANSI 300 flange is actually rated for a test pressure of 740 psi (~5100 kPa), and only within a certain working temperature range (-20 to 100 deg F.)

In most cases these are not interchangeable (e.g. an ANSI flange will not mate against a JIS flange). Further many of the flanges in each standard are divided into "pressure classes", allowing flanges to be capable of taking different pressure ratings. Again these are not generally interchangeable (e.g. an ANSI 150 will not mate with an ANSI 300). These "pressure classes" also have differing pressure and temperature ratings for different materials. "Pressure Classes" of piping are usually developed for a process plant or power generating station; these "pressure classes" may be unique to the specific corporation, Engineering Procurement and Construction (EPC) contractor, or the process plant owner.

The flange faces are made to standardized dimensions and are typically "flat face", "raised face", "tongue and groove", or "ring joint" styles, although other obscure styles are possible.

Favored Classes of Steel Structures

There are a number of pre-engineered steel building systems for sale in today's marketplace. It is important to have a detailed analysis of the characteristics of each approach to the development of steel. The opening of the web of steel beam and hot-rolled wide flange beam are two of the most accepted in the metal engineering. The opening of the web and the steel beam wide flange beam treatments will be judged on the content of this report.

The opening of the web of steel beam method is famous for its cost-efficiency and continuing technological developments. Open Web steel beams that form this configuration provides a steel roof and the use of large flange beam steel reinforcement beams or girders. A program design of steel is calibrated opening of the web joists also called bar joists. Ducts, pipes, ducts and Placement is easier to adapt open web design saves space.

Part of the roof is required to support the load distributed similarly makes the beam of a top pick. High tensile strength metal is used in this setting that results in an excellent strength-to-weight percentage using beams that are open-webbed. Due to the instability of the entire network open beams, however, the additional reinforcement should be used during construction of the assembly of steel structure. Buttressing Once that is running and then the steel structure, roof, put the whole level will be substantial.

Metal beams on the perimeter, in conjunction with all-steel casing fashionable building roof side diaphragm. This configuration is good for the steel construction of buyers who want a shade less pre-engineered roof as higher ceilings, in this framework, the system call for the design of the most important expenditure. If the pre-steel structure engineering is over 17 meters in breadth then open a network configuration can be priced. Girder beams can be used positively to companies that include a larger area in the building longer combined with lights. The system relies on some buttressing for the cohesion and the structure is reinforced by tubular columns or wide flange beams.

In particular, hot-rolled wide flange beam technique is very competent and very different subset 2 discusses the collection techniques to fit better with the demands of the structure. One of the characteristics of the two methods of continuous crossing. The core of this system is the use of 3 simple structural beams. It is above head and shoulders in most events, with the use of a single continuous beam bending examination there are significant benefits and greater amount of vertical deviations. This system has its flaws, however, the stability of the structure with potential difficulties and also through the strain of cold or heat, the pressure of the metal beam.

Most other cantilevered beam technique is particularly satisfying that the course. Exact joint planning in this setting is essential to the success of the method. Simply supported and cantilevered structural beams are used in this style mentioned above. Many buildings make extensive use of metal structural advantage meticulous preparation, because the design combined with the appropriate structure assembly were used. Bending movements are witnessing structural beam, while the closures on developing devices articulated.

The hot rolled wide flange beam configuration is accepted throughout the steel construction work. A wide range of loads of building sites and roof can be adjusted easily using this method. The beams can be formed on a large number of configurations of size or form of construction almost unlimited choices.

How to Change a Sailboat Engine in Just One Week

Clean both flanges using a wire brush. Push the prop shaft flange against the gearbox flange. Ensure the centering rings set in place. Give the flanges a twist back and forth to make sure they are seated well together. Slide a feeler gauge between the flange faces. Measure and mark the area of greatest gap.

Before you proceed rotate the prop shaft one hundred and eighty degrees or a half turn. Check the feeler gauge readings. They should remain constant. If the readings changed from our first measurement then the shaft is bent or the flange is bad. If you find a bent shaft and it exceeds the four thousands tolerance of the alignment then fix that problem before you continue with the alignment.

Often times we suspect the shaft is bent or some other aspect of the drive system is out of true. This simple shaft rotation test confirms the problem or sets our mind at ease. Adjust the engine mounts a bit at a time to close the gap in the flange faces. Keep all four mounts as even as possible. Keep checking alignment till you are within.004". At that time tighten all the mounting bolts and check alignment again. Wiggle and shake the engine as much as you can. On larger engines you may have to get two people pushing and pulling to get the engine to move around. The idea is to make the engine settle on her mounts. Check the alignment again and adjust your mounts to fix any gap that reopened. Keep repeating this procedure until the engine is sitting in perfect alignment.

Expect to take about six hours to do a perfect engine alignment. A good experienced technician can normally complete this process in about an hour. Of course this means all the bolts are loose, clean and access is easy. Tip- Resist the urge to move a single mount that builds up a little pressure on the opposing mount to make a small adjustment. When the rubber in the engine mounts get hot it will soften and fall out of alignment causing the engine to begin vibrating.

Changing the main engine of a boat sounds like a huge project. Cranes, plans, alignment, choosing the right engine, it can all seems overwhelming to the yachtsman. In reality for the DIY changing a main engine in a yacht is relatively straightforward. You don't have to learn all the special skills of a master mechanic as you never rebuild or even work on the diesel engine.

It's a simple matter of removing the old engine, rebuilding the engine mounting rails, and then bolting the new engine in place. It might sound complicated, but it's really rather simple. Do it yourselfers often take over three months to get their engines installed. I have devised a system outlined below where we can change a main engine in just one week. The one-week engine change means the boat, and often the family living area is only torn up for seven days.

Step 1-Buy New, DON'T REBUILD!

This is a very important point. Boat owners will often look at their worn out, leaking, engines wanting a rebuild of the old trusted "friend". Unfortunately the numbers don't add up. Consider that a rebuild job will normally cost about half the price of a new engine. Most rebuilds only come with a short term and local guarantee. In other words head to the islands and if complications arise the local mechanic that rebuilt the engine will want the engine returned to his shop or marina for service.

I come across engines all the time on the cruising circuit that have five hundred hours after a new rebuild. They are blowing and burning oil leaving the owner back to square one. Besides, the price estimate I just gave is only the cost of rebuilding the block. The old heat exchanger, oil cooler, gear box, alternator, and high priced injection pump may still have five thousand original hours on them. Rebuild all of the extra components and your well on your way to the cost of a new engine.

Measure before you pull the old engine

Ask many "do it yourself" yacht owner about an engine change and the sticking points will be:

1. How to measure for the new engine.

2. How to move the new engine.

3. How to make a perfect alignment.

Lets start with how to measure. This semi-simple process takes about two hours and is outlined below.

The Measurement

The measuring technique is the heart of an engine change. The first thing you will need to do is find the existing height of the crankshaft center to the bottom of the existing flexible engine mounts. To do this take a flat edge and lay it across the engine beds. Use this straight line to measure down from the crankshaft center to the engine bed line.

This is your first important figure. This is the line of the prop shaft progressed forward. If the gearbox has an offset, or a drop, then you must add or subtract this figure to your final measurement. Now look at the drawings for the new engine and find the distance from the center of the crank to the engine beds. Add in the gearbox offset if any and you should now have two separate measurements. The difference between them is the thickness you will have to make up, or cut down from the excising mounts to make the new engine fit.

Simple Now that you know

Strangely after many engine changes with this system I have not come across an engine bed that needs to be lowered. For some reason they all have to be raised 10mm to 50mm. The difference between the old engine and new is the all-important measurement. If you got this right then you can have the "adapt a rail" pre-made before you remove the old engine. Lift the old engine, bolt down a pre-made piece of steel rail (to make up the height difference), and set the new engine in place.

Often two inches is the magic number. If you got lucky and the new engine mounts sit exactly two inches high then buy a piece of two by four steel extrusion 5mm or thicker. Lay the new rail right over the old engine beds, bolt them down, and set the new engine in place. Sometimes I have to take the extrusion to a shop and have it cut and welded to the special thickness I need. Either way make this particular, all important adapt-a-rail before you lift the old engine.

Tip-While the old engine is out it is the perfect time to paint the engine area white, and maybe service the bilge hoses or anything else that runs under the engine. Tip 2-Consider installing a series of lights that illuminate the engine from below. Your new engine is going to be very clean and nothing helps keep an area clean like really good lighting.

Price saver

Often the DIY can save a bit of money by measuring, and doing the heavy lifting themselves. Once this is complete call your mechanic to do the alignment and inspection. This can be a win/win for all. The local mechanic gets some of the work and catches the basic mistakes, while the owner pays to have the difficult part of the work completed and yet does the easy work himself.

The Rest of the Fit

You will have to measure width, height, and depth of the new engine along with the motor mounts, but most modern engines are much smaller than the twenty year old diesel you will be removing. The only time size has been a problem has is when we remove a small engine and replace it with a much larger model. The popular Perkins 4-108 is now replaced by a Yanmar that is about 2/3rds the size of the original. The 56hp Yanmar is about the same size as Perkins 4-108 giving almost half again the horsepower.

Lifting the Old Engine

The lifting, and removal of the old engine is the next step of what some do it yourselfers may find overwhelming. I almost always lift from the main boom supported by halyards. I attach a block and tackle to the lifting point and then run the bitter end to a winch. I use a land crane to set the engine on deck then take over myself with a boom lift. I always use two lifting points on every aspect of the lift. If any single line were to break the engine would not fall. The lifting lines are tailed to the two largest sheet winches on the boat.

The crane lifts the engine onto the yacht's deck. Unless you really trust your crane driver it's often better to move the engine by block and tackle the rest of way to the new engine beds where the movement can be controlled with precision.

Lifting the engine using the boat's rig. Pay particular attention to the gooseneck or connection between the boom and the mainmast. As long as the boom is in center line with the boat the load should be in compression, or pushing into the mast. The problem can occur when we attempt to swing the boom out to the side. The load on the gooseneck turns from one of compression to side load. Inspect the gooseneck carefully and keep the load inline with the mast as much as possible.

Tip- If you find you have to lay on top of the engine to reach the flange to measure your weight will almost assuredly change the compression of the mounts and thus your alignment. If this is the case then you will have to find some clever way to keep your weight off the engine while you test the flange. If I have to lay over the engine to work on it lay some carpet over the engine to help keep comfortable. If you're comfortable you can almost always do a better job.

Best Deal on Hummer Wheels

If you are wondering what kind of wheel are right for you Hummer here's some helpful information on Hummer wheels that will help you better understand the intricacies of picking out the perfect wheels for you Hummer. The factory one piece steel wheels are hub centric, and use the flange lug nuts. All other wheels are lug centric and use the Acorn lug nuts. What this means is that the one piece factory wheel depends on its fit over the hub for centering and support.

Because of this the hub hole in a one piece wheel is concerning 1/32 inches smaller in diameter than other Hummer wheels. The correct way to measure the width of a wheel is from bead seat to bead seat. Another important factor in wheel maintenance is lug nut torque. New aluminum wheels have some crush value left in them so they should be readjusted at fifty, one hundred, and two hundred miles before you expect that they hold their torque. You should read up and find more information on this and mounting and balancing wheels before you make your final decision.

Understanding Custom Hummer Wheels

In the past vehicle wheels used to be submissive sections of steel with tiers attached. Today, this major element has become a definitive accessory that screams essence and style to your ride. Beyond doubt there's no other part of a vehicle that can swiftly modify the outward show of the vehicle more rapidly than a set of fine looking wheels.

Attention grabbing wheels can add a little something to even the most dull and lackluster automobile. Wheels come in many different looks and styles so you can pick the wheels and rims that best match your style. Wheels are also available in a variety of sizes and styles. The size of the wheels without a doubt has a lot to do with the nature of performance the wheels will provide. Larger wheel are put in to pull off the rugged muscular look while at the same time supplying improved handling. Big wheels are also designed to battle bumpy environments and to refuse to accept any retribution from off road maneuvering. Smaller wheels, on the other hand, can make your vehicle come out lower to the ground making it specifically styled for receptive street driving.

When it comes to Hummer wheels, the decision can be overwhelming. It can very difficult to find the perfect set of wheels for your Hummer, a set that would be just the thing for your asset. Coming to a decision on the right wheels for your Hummer has a lot more to do with than purely the size of the wheels. Among the other factors that you have to consider when looking for new set of Hummer wheels include the type of job your vehicle is supposed to do. The right Hummer wheels are based on your particular intentions, if your hummer is just a show ride, something to drive around the city on the weekend, or a family ride with an attitude giving you the comfort of safety and the functionality of use. It also makes a big difference whether if your Hummer is rear wheel drive or front wheel drive.

Once you pick out the right Hummer wheels that fit your style, commands and demands, you have done your research so you can now go to an auto part shop to acquire your desired pieces. But if you want aftermarket, custom wheels, available to the general public for very affordable prices, just visit our website, we are an aftermarket wholesale wheel dealer, and we sell aftermarket/custom wheels to the general public for very affordable prices. We have widest array of top quality Hummer wheels in various sizes, styles and specifications. For whatever type of Hummer wheels you need, we have you covered.

The Hummer H1 and the Hummer H2 have the same bolt pattern. Hummer H2 wheels have a smaller hub; they are 17 inchX 8.5". It is possible to use Hummer H2 wheels on the Hummer H1, but you will have to devise the hub outward 3/32 inches so the wheel will fit on the Hummer H1 tire frame. The load capacity of the Hummer H2 wheel may not be enough for the Hummer H1, therefore, adjustments may have to be made before you get out on the road. Another issue to deal with is that the backset of the Hummer H2 wheel is not the same as the Hummer H1. Two piece steel wheels squeeze in the tire and run flat bead locks between two halves that bolt together with a dozen flanged locknuts. This design allows repairs to be made in the field without unique equipment, tire machine. That is why all the armed forces Hummers have two piece wheels.

While it is feasible to disassemble this wheel in the field it is a very tedious exercise to screw on and off the dozen locknuts with no power tools. The good thing concerning it is that you are capable to tune up the wheels at home if you would like. All the two piece wheels offered by AMG before to the 2000 model year came with five faced wheel nuts that have need of a unique socket to do away with. This was done to lessen AMG's legal responsibility when these wheels were repaired. If you to do away with the wheel nuts while the tire is full of air the wheel assemblage could blow up. By controlling who was capable to purchase the socket AMG could insure that only trained technicians could service the wheels. It turned out that many owners were capable to obtain or make their own sockets and purchase regular hex flange nuts from the many Army surplus dealers. The most recent two piece wheels which are standard on the 2000 models now come with hex nuts.

The two piece wheels do have need of some preservation. Over time depending on circumstances such as torque and tire pressure the wheel studs can burst and have need of replacement. It is more likely that studs burst on really hot days on the road when the tire pressure increases in the heat up to near 50 PSI levels. Whenever you are on the highway in the heat you should watch the tire pressure and don't let it rise above 45 PSI. For these reasons it is important to check your wheels at gas stations and rest stops. All you will notice is a wheel nut missing. It is recommended that you carry a few studs and nuts with you on trips. You want to replace a blown stud as soon as possible because it will cause the adjoining studs to carry the load and possibly fail. It is suggested to replace the blown stud and the two adjacent studs. In 2000 AMG came out with a recently fashioned two piece wheel. They are on hand with hex nuts and use an orange / red ring which is thinner than the previous style rings. They also have an opening that you have to to line up when putting back together.

In 1996 AMG came out with their first 16.5 inch aluminum wheel. If you have the chance to take a look at these wheels you will notice that the spokes are very smooth. When AMG first came out with their 17 inch aluminum wheels they had the same smooth spoke patterns. However, all the following 17 inch aluminum Hummer wheels have a spoke with a three dimensional contour and have a hidden CTI.

Twelve bolt two piece steel wheels, with no bead lock/ run flat with GSA's weighs 110 lbs. In my opinion you should not use a twelve bolt wheel without either a run flat or a bead lock. Unless the tire is inflated to at least 20 PSI the tire can come off the rim. If the tire loses air from a leaking CTI system the tire will roll out and come off the rim. The majority of two piece wheels came from the factory with one piece solid rubber run flats that also security device both tire beads. These each weigh about thirty five lbs each with a total wheel and tire weight of about 142 lbs and require that the inside of the tire be coated with unique grease. It takes a unique run flat removal device and a lot of work to change a tire with this set of connections. In previous models, on the early style Hummers there was a two piece run flat that came out for a short time.

AMG also offers a bead lock which is in the region of 10 lbs lighter and does not have the call for of any unique tools or run flat grease and locks both tire beads. The two piece wheels with bead locks are more preferable for this reason. Having a run flat on a civilian Hummer does not buy you much. It is only in very rare situations that you would not have the chance to merely stop and change a tire. If you are forced to drive on a flat tire you will most likely ruin the tire whether you have run flats or not. If you are driving with seventeen inch wheels you should not lower the tire pressure to a large extent lower than fifteen PSI or the tire will start to hit the run flat. In addition the run flat grease makes it complicated if not unworkable to patch a tire.

Working on Hummer wheels is a serious task and can be dangerous if you are not prepared or don't know what you are doing. Keep in mind and be conscious that even the best wheels can become bent under extreme conditions. If you notice shaking, verify the balance and equilibrium. The one piece 16.5 inch steel wheels are not as strong as other Hummer wheels. The company that offered AMG with the one piece steel wheels turned out with a lot of flawed wheels. That is why AMG went back to the two piece steel 16.5 inch wheels for the newer Hummer wheel models.

If you decide to go with the one piece Hummer wheels you will probably have two piece run flats installed. There is no need; these run flats are totally worthless because they do not really lock the tire bead. If you ever have the chance to pull your tires off and take out the run flats, throw them as far as you can. If you decide to keep the two piece run flats you will have to get a only one of a kind Kent Moore run flat cam socket to tighten the run flats which can cost you upwards of $500.

The one piece wheels are very easy to tune up once the run flats have been replaced. You can have the tires mounted and balanced at most tire stores with standard tire machines. These one piece wheels are abundant in supply so they cost less than the other wheels and can make for a good spare tire. If you decide to go with the one piece wheel as a spare, make sure you go with the flanged lug nuts. If you already have or are planning to get a tire carrier, make sure that the Hummer wheels you are planning to make use of will fit on the carrier.

There are two types of aluminum wheels, the one piece standard and the two piece forged Hutchinson which comes with either a bead lock or a run flat as an option. The factory aluminum wheels are great because they are light, run true and hide the CTI hardware. The only negative aspect to the aluminum wheels is that they can get sliced up off road. The two piece forged aluminum wheel is the most excellent wheel yet prepared for the Hummer for the reason that they are extremely physically powerful, light weight, and fasten the tire beads. The trouble with these wheels is that they cost well over one thousand dollars each if you buy direct from the factory, without tires. The solution is to put on a set of the Goodyear MTR's and you will have a good quality arrangement.

In all probability the most popular aftermarket wheel for the Hummer are the Cepeck 8.5 inches by 17 inch aluminum wheels with Hidden CTI. Most likely, this is due to the fact that they have a load rating of forty five hundred lbs and are very strong. These wheels are one of the only aftermarket wheels for the Hummer H1 that has the proper offset. These wheels also come in 18 inch.

The first design of one piece 16.5 inch steel wheels made its appearance in the 1993 model year in the Recruit Series Hummer. This is the only vehicle they were used on. In 1995 the 16.5 inch Goodyear GSA highway touring tire was introduced as an option. And in January of 1996 a new one piece 16.5 inch steel wheel using flanged head lug nuts became the standard OEM wheel until the new century model year.

The twelve bolt two piece 16.5 inch steel wheels with Goodyear MT radial tires have always been available to the general public for the civilian Hummer. The two piece steel wheels were distributed with five sided flange headed wheel and six sided tapered lug nuts. These wheels were used on all non-recruit Hummers for the duration until January of 1996 and the MT tires were a typical apparatus up to the 2001 year.

Wall Safes at Home

Luckily, most wall safes are easy to mount as they come with "flange", which means you don't have to re-cover any of the walls you've cut (unless you cut the hole too large, so take very careful measurements!)

A wall safe is a slightly more advanced option for home security when compared to the typical in-home safe. A wall safe can be concealed inside the wall, with the opening hidden behind a painting or photograph. A more standard home safe just sits on the floor, pretty much out in the open. It's true that a safe that sits on the floor is still difficult to break into; but if a safe is hidden in the wall, burglars are not likely to know they are there which will help protect your prized possessions.

Keeping valuables stored in a bank's security deposit box offers protection but is certainly not as convenient as having them stored in your home. You have to visit the bank when it is open, and provide proof of identification. If you need something you've stored in your home safe, you can simply go to the safe built into your wall, spin the combination or unlock with the key, and retrieve your valuables.

A safe inside one of the walls in your home provides a high level of security with the convenience of having your belongings at home. Wall safes are usually mounted permanently inside the walls, in between the studs. They can be installed when a home is being built; or afterward. If installing a wall safe after the home is already built, you will need to cut an appropriate sized hole in the wall between the studs to slide the safe inside. Measure twice, cut once!

Here are some considerations for buying wall safes:

The Price of a Wall Safe

There is a wide range of prices for wall safes, mostly depending upon the materials used to create the safe, the size of the safe, or the dealer supplying them. Safes are not all created equal, and some offer higher levels of protections than others, therefore costing a bit more. Consider your budget when comparing safes, but try to keep in mind that generally, you get what you pay for. You can get a high security wall safe in the ballpark of $200 to $500.

Wall Safe Ratings

Take a look at the safety and security ratings of the wall safes you consider. Know whether or not they will protect your documents and possessions in the event of a fire and if they are waterproof from the outside.

The Size of a Wall Safe

Since the safe is to be installed between your studs, you'll want to make sure you know what the distance is between the studs in the wall you intend to install your wall safe. Most are a standard 16" apart, and most wall safes are designed to fit this width. Another consideration is the depth of the safe - and that it will fit inside your wall. Be sure to choose a wall that doesn't have electric wires or pipes running through it, or be prepared to hire professionals to help you relocated wires and flange pipes. A wall safe is an excellent way to keep your jewelry, money, and important paperwork safe from burglars, accidents, and fire.

Applying Hand Cuffs Properly

The key should have one side that has a flange on it and on the other side should be a pin that sticks out about a quarter of an inch, which is for the double lock mechanism.

In this article I will explain the correct way to apply hand cuffs. I will also identify what not to do. After reading this you will know how to properly apply hand cuffs; with practice, only a handful of people may will be able to compromise and defeat the hand cuff.

Overview of the parts:

·The hand cuff is comprised of two halves.

·Each half has a stationary part and a rotating part.

·On each stationary part there is a keyhole and on most units, a double lock switch or button.

·The two halves are linked together by chain or a hinge.

Hand Cuff Inspection:

·Always inspect your hand cuffs prior to starting your shift.

·Inspect the handcuffs for rust, discoloration, and ground out or faulty gears.

·Run the rotating part through the stationary part. You should hear clicks.

The steps to properly apply handcuffs:

·After inspection is done, you need to learn how to hold the hand cuffs to properly apply them quick and easily.

·Always (I can't stress this enough) have positive control of the person you are cuffing. It will hurt them less and be easier for you to apply the cuffs.

·You need to hold them with the rotating part open with both the keyholes pointed up towards your face, so you can see down into the keyhole. If you don't complete this step right, the assailant could pick the lock and compromise your cuffs.

·You hold the chain or hinge with your non-dominant hand. If you use your dominant hand you can lose control of the person and fumble when applying the cuffs.

·With the assailants hands behind his or hers back, you need to turn their hands so the back of the hands are touching. If you fail to do this, the assailant will have more movement of their hands giving them a better opportunity to defeat the cuffs or "slip" the cuff. Always apply one cuff at a time.

·Using your dominate hand, start on your non-dominate side and put the stationary part of the cuff on the wrist of the assailant and rotate the rotating side over the wrist; you will hear a clicking sound when inserted into the stationary side.

·Using your pinky finger, slip it in-between the cuff and the side of the person's wrist. This allows the cuff to be tight enough so they can't get out of it but lose enough that it doesn't cause unnecessary use of force and discomfort.

·Now you need to work the other side. Slide the stationary side on the wrist of the person and rotate the other side. Follow the same procedure for tightening the cuff as explained above.

·Now, while keeping positive control of the person, you need to get out your key.

·On the back side of your key, you should have a quarter inch pin that sticks out. This is for the double lock. The double lock prevents the cuff from tightening further than you originally set it.

·Using that pin, find your double lock. On most models it underneath the cuff or on the side of the cuff.

·Depending on your model, you either need to push in the button or toggle over the switch.

·Remember to always have positive control of the person.

·To remove the cuff you just simply put the key in the key hole and turn the key. It will unlock the double lock and the cuff at the same time.

Conclusion:

The key to applying hand cuffs is to have positive control of the person being hand cuffed. Helpful Hint; if standing, place your foot in between their feet; if they get rowdy you are already in position to assist them to the wall or the ground. Remember the best time to learn your lesson about personal security if before something happens.

Adam Sisterhen is the president of Your Personal Security Store and author of personal security and self defense articles. He is a proud advocate and a firm believer in personal security and self defense products that help protect you, your family and your loved ones.

Inspect the key visually; the flange should be straight. Then place the key in the lock; it should slide in easily and fit tight without forcing it.

Replacing Kitchen Or Bathroom Faucet in 8 Steps

Is your old flange Sink Faucet ugly or does it get in the way when there is a sink full of dishes? Feel Refreshed in Your Kitchen or Bathroom with a new Sink Faucet.

Step One: Choose a Faucet

Select a faucet that requires the same number of openings in the sink that your current faucet has, and the same spacing between those openings.

If it doesn't, you will NOT need to cut into the sheetrock of the wall but may have to drill a hole in the top on the sink counter. This is in case you do not already have a spray hose and or a soap pump and want one on the side.

Note: For easier installation, instead of using the supply hoses that come with the faucet, consider buying flexible stainless steel supply hoses. These are more reliable and lasts years.

Step Two: Disconnect the Supply Hose and Faucets

It is smart to always wear eye protection when working on Home Remodeling Projects.

Under the sink: turn the handles of the two shut-off valves clockwise as far as you can. If there are no shut-off valves, or if you can't turn them, turn off the water where it comes into the house.

Turn on the faucets to drain water from the hoses. Use a pipe wrench to remove the hoses from the copper tailpipes under each faucet.

Use a Basin Wrench to unscrew the nuts under the existing faucets and spout - if the nuts are stuck, use penetrating oil to loosen them. Lift off the faucets and spout, and then use a Putty Knife to scrape off any Plumber's Putty or Caulk from the top of the flange sink.

Step Three: Install the New Spout and Faucets

Follow the instructions that came with the faucet. They give specific details for installing the spout and handles. The following are general instructions.

Insert the faucets and spout from above the sink, using plumbers putty or silicone to seal them to the surface if they don't have a sealing gasket.

Under the sink, loosely install the gaskets, washers, nuts and other hardware for the spout and faucets. Align them above the sink and then tighten them securely.

Step Four: Install the Supply Hoses

Clockwise, tightly wrap the threaded fittings at the end of the copper tube under the faucets with Teflon tape - the tape helps form a tight seal.

Use two wrenches to attach the hoses to the faucets (for a two-valve faucet) or connector adapter (for a one-valve faucet): one to hold the copper tube so it doesn't break off the faucet, and another to tighten the nut.

Place a bucket under the sink to catch leaks. Remove the aerator from the end of the spout - if you can't unscrew it by hand, wrap a rag around it and turn it with an adjustable wrench. Open the water shutoffs and turn on the faucets for several minutes to clear out any debris. Reattach the aerator.

Step Five: Remove the Old Drain Assembly

Remove old drain assembly, including the sink stopper, the flange (the collar in the sink's drain opening), the drain body (the pipe just under the drain opening) and its locknut, the lift rod that opens and closes the stopper, and the parts that attach the lift rod to the stopper.

Use the putty knife to scrape old putty and silicone from the drain opening.

Step Six: Install the New Drain Assembly

Place a ring of plumbers putty or silicone sealant around the drain opening and insert the flange from above the sink.

Under the sink, attach the drain body to the flange and then use a pipe wrench to tighten the lock nut to secure the connection. Make sure the flange is tightly seated in the drain hole and remove excess sealant.

Step Seven: Install the Stopper

Drop the lift rod through the hole in the faucet and then, under the sink, attach it to the lift rod strap (the plastic or metal strip with a lot of holes along its length) with the thumb screw or other hardware that comes with the faucet.

Above the sink, insert the stopper into the drain. Under the sink, insert the stopper's control rod horizontally through the hole in the side of the drain body and then into the hole at the base of the stopper.

Thread the end of the control rod through one hole on the spring clip, through one of the holes in the lift rod strap and then through the other hole in the spring clip.

Use the lift rod to open and close the strainer; if it doesn't open fully and close tightly, thread the control rod through a different hole in the lift rod strap.

Step Eight: Make sure Everything Works Properly

After all the other steps have been completed and all the joints are tightened sufficiently, turn on the shut-off valves. On the faucet, turn the cold water on first, slowly, just barely open it and then if the water hose or pipes jump, wait for them to quit jumping and then turn the cold water on full blast. This will help prevent any flange air bubbles that may in the plumbing system from causing the water to splatter everywhere when you use the water. Repeat steps on the hot water side.

Towbar Types Explained

Explanation of the different types of tow bars available the pros and cons explained for each type.

Flange Towbar Types

The most commonly used type of bar in the U.K. is the Flange where the tow ball is bolted to the bar with two 24mm bolts. There are also some variations of the flange bar type that have four bolts instead of two.This is the most versatile design of bar because it can be used with tow ball mounted accessories i.e. Cycle carriers, bumper protectors & all types of stabilisers, all mounted between the tow bar & ball. The flange type of tow hitch is non-removable.

Reasons to buy a flange type bar:

1. Compatible with a large number of vehicles.

2. Allows for a choice of tow balls.

3. The height of the bar can be altered using drop plates.

4. Economical, they are the cheapest type of bar.

Reasons not to buy a flange type:

1. Both the tow bar and electrics can be seen when looking at the vehicle.

2. Different types of towball can be expensive.

Swan Neck Towbar Types

In the E.U. the most common type of towbar is the Swan Neck This is where the tow ball and the neck are all one piece of the tow bar. This type of tow bar is becoming more popular in the U.K. due to the appearance of the bar looking neater and with the bar being narrower it is less likely to trigger your parking sensors.

This type of bar is a little less versatile you can either tow or attach a cycle carrier you can't use both at the same time.

The swan neck bar can also be used with an Alko stabiliser without the need for modification.

Reasons to buy a swan neck type:

1. Compatible with a large number of vehicles.

2. Compatible with Alko stabilisers

3. This type of towbar looks professional and discreet.

4. Competitively priced tow bar, slightly more expensive than the flange

type towbar.

Reasons not to buy a swan neck type:

1. Tow ball height cannot be altered.

2. Alternate Towballs cannot be fitted.

3. Slightly more expensive than a flange type.

4. Swan neck type towbars are visible unlike the detachable type towbars.

Detachable Towbar Types

When fitted to the vehicle a Detachable towbar looks very similar to a Swan neck. However the beauty of this type of bar is that the neck simply unclips when not in use it, leaving little or nothing of the tow bar to see.

Witter Towbar systems offer Quantum Vertical towbar and Quantum Horizontal towbar. They are termed as this due to the manor in which they are inserted into the housing of the towbar.

Reasons to buy a detachable towbar:

1. Almost invisible, and in some cases this type of towbar is invisible

when not in use.

2. Already compatible with a large number of vehicles. As popularity

increases with this type of towbar more and more vehicles will have this

type of towbar developed for them.

3. Compatible with Alko stabilisers

4. Aesthetically better looking in appearance compared to other types.

5. Reduces risk of injury when around the rear of the vehicle, as the

detachable neck can be removed when not in use.

Reasons not to buy a detachable:

1. Tow ball height cannot be altered.

2. Alternate Towballs cannot be fitted.

3. Much more expensive than a flange and swan neck towbar.

Electric Swivelling Type Towbar

The electric swivelling trailer towbar system is the newest type of bar developed by Westfalia.

One press of a button and the towbar will appear from under the vehicle. You are then ready to tow!

The electric swivelling towbar type leads the way in the tow bar industry.

Vertical Detachable Tow Bar Types

The automatic detachable towbar is invisible. This type of towbar allows easy removal and fitting of the tow ball neck. The neck of the towbar is inserted vertically into the actual towbar fitted to the vehicle. To prevent theft or unwanted removal of the towbar neck a lock and key has been added.

Horizontal Detachable Tow Bar Types

The automatic detachable type towbar is invisible just like the one above. The only difference between the vertical detachable towbar type and the horizontal detachable towbar type is the direction in which the towbar neck is inserted into the towbar fitted to the vehicle.

Compact detachable Tow Bar Types

This type of towbar made by Westfalia is a smaller and cheaper version of the vertical / horizontal detachable towbar types. The neck of this type of towbar fits into the towbar fitted to the vehicle horizontally and like most Westfalia products this type of towbar is secured using a lock and ey.

Pin System Towbar Types

Pin System Detachable Type Tow Bar

This type of towbar is another similar to the detachable type towbars. The pin system towbar's neck is inserted horizontally into the fitted part of the towbar unlike other types of towbar this system does not have a lock and key. Instead it is secured by a pin, which itself is made secure by a leg spring.

Nut System Towbar Types

This type of towbar is identical to the Pin System towbar type. The only difference being where the pin system is secured with a pin the nut system is secured with a nut.

Permanently Attached Type Tow Bar

Universal HGV Tow bar Types

Westfalia Towing Brackets are suitable for vehicles up to 3.5 t. The good thing about this tow hitch type is that they are fully adjustable in terms of both width and height. This type of bar allows fitting to vehicles that do not have a standard type tow bar allocated to them.

With many different combinations available to this type of tow hitch, this should be your first choice when searching for HGV towing equipment.

Tow bars are type approved, This means that a tow hitch for a VW Golf 2006 will only fit a VW Golf 2006, It will not a Ford Focus 2006

This article was written by a time served towbar fitter, any questions relating to towbars, towing hitchs feel free to ask and I will be happy to help.

I am have been working as a fully trained diesel fitter for 30 years, Trained by all 4 of the main diesel fuel pump manufacturers I will be happy to answer any question relating to diesel engines or diesel vehicles in general.

This type of tow bar is Westfalias version of the commonly known flange type. Both (F10 Welded) and (F20 Bolted) are available, although thebolt type tow bar is preferred to the welded. Fixed Flange otherwise known as permanently attached is the cheapest model of bar.

Three Easy Steps to Repair a Leaky Wax Seal on Your Toilet

There are several options for repairing a cast iron flange. Putting a new steel ring over the top of the cast iron flange, chipping off the rusted flange and replacing with a new cast iron flange, or inserting a PVC (plastic) flange with an expansion joint are some of the options for repairing a damaged or deteriorated cast iron flange. Repair techniques for PVC flanges include using a "half moon" metal part, or a PVC spacer. All these parts can be purchased at your local home improvement store.

Symptom: There is water on the floor around the base of my toilet or water leaks from under the base of my toilet when I flush.

Usually this happens when the wax ring looses it's seal. Replacing the wax ring under the toilet bowl should repair this problem.

The first step in making this repair is to turn off the water source and remove all the water from your toilet tank and bowl. A good maintenance tip is to have a stop valve installed before the water supply line to the toilet tank. This is very common in most residences. If there is no stop valve the water will have to be turned off outside to make this repair.

Many times an inline shut off valve will be installed where the water enters the home. The water can be turned off here, or at the street where the water meter is installed. A good maintenance procedure is to install a shut off valve right outside the house where the water enters from the street. It is also very convenient for making other plumbing repairs.

Next, once all the water is out of the toilet tank and bowl and the water is turned off, disconnect the water supply line to the toilet tank. Next Remove the nuts from the bolts that hold the toilet bowl to the floor so you can lift the bowl off the floor and away from the toilet flange(top of the sewer pipe). Inspect the flange for deterioration or damage. Cast iron pipe flanges rust over time and may need to be repaired or replaced.

Tools needed: channel lock pliers, adjustable wrench, hammer.

Plumbing repairs do not have to be scary. Learn the simple steps for making many household plumbing repairs. Click on the link below for more free information.

The last step, once you have inspected and/or repaired the toilet flange is to install the wax ring that you purchased at the local home improvement store. The wax ring is applied to the bottom of the toilet bowl. Set the bolts in the toilet flange and carefully set the toilet bowl over the bolts onto the wax ring. Install the nuts onto the bolts being careful not to over tighten. Reattach the water supply line and open the valve. Check for leaks. Once the tank is full, do a test flush to be sure you have a good seal at the flange. Your repair is complete!

Trimaran Building Project For A Grainger 9.2M

Some foam core hulls have resulted in the foam shearing away from the glass laminates as the high load stresses transferred from say the outer skin through the foam core to the inner skin have resulted in the foam failing to hold the skins together in position, like a web holds the flange of a steel I beam.

These fibres are also very strong in both tensile and compressive strength and unlike synthetic fibres they are the most durable fibres and will not fatigue. In my opinion foams do not provide anywhere near the toughness, fatigue, tensile and compressive properties that Duracore.

The Grainger MTB920 is a composite round bilge light weight racer cruiser design, and in my view he is one of the best multihull designers on the planet. I had been a mono hull sailor since in young boy, but later had the desire for both windward performance plus extreme speeds constantly, that can only be achieved by a mono hull for a few seconds as the hull planes down a swell or wave. Sure monohulls can reach incredible speeds, but not at the same numbers constantly achieved with a multihull on reasonably flat waters.

Well designed modern trimaran achieve both windward performance and extreme speed, so a trimaran was my choice for this project.

I decided to build the trimaran using duracore as opposed to foam core or western red cedar strip plank construction and the following article is my reason for choosing Duracore over a couple of other core materials and I sincerely hope I have explained in simple layman's language the theory behind my decision. A jig saw, skill saw and battery powered screw driver were the main tools used to construct the hull core.

Let's get into the core material. Foam cores require a more complex mould to support the foam, and some foam does not offer anywhere the same strength and durability as wood fibres cores do. The foam cores that are good are extremely expensive and out of reach of most amateur yacht builders. I would have liked to built a boat using a foam core, but was not prepared to spend the extra hours and expense in building a more complex mould require to support the foam layup, plus the added expense of a good high quality foam.

Western red cedar appealed to me as it is affordable and provides the amateur builder a method to produce a strong strip planked round bilge hull with a simple mould, male or female and very simple tools. Fibre glass is then laid up over the planked up hull inside and out with the glass fibres orientated to the designers plans. I was very close to selecting this method of construction.

Imagine steel beam supporting the load of a heavy concrete tile house roof. The top flange is trying to compress or grow shorter as the beam is resisting bending and the bottom flange is under tension and trying to resist stretching under tension. Now the web which is the part in between the top flange and the bottom flange is like the core material in the hull of our yacht. It its job is to make sure that the top flange and the bottom flange stay the same distance from each other, as if it cannot and the distance starts to get smaller then the resulting loads that the top and bottom flanges will increase, the web buckles more and so on until either a total failure of the webs or the flanges occur.

Duracore is a composite in itself. The material I used was made of Balsa which is 10mm thick end grain balsa bonded in between two thin 1.5mm veneers of good quality marine hardwood. The end grain balsa provides immense impact resistance, as the grain runs across the thickness direction of the plank. Imagine placing a finger each side of the plank with the hard wood veneers removed and the ends of the balsa fibres are pricking into the ends of your fingers, because this is the direction that the end grains of the balsa are laid up and bonded in between the hardwood veneers. This construction provides very high impact resistance, while being a very light material for its strength. The hardwood veneer fibres run the length of the plank, and therefore the length of the hull.

In our case the core or the laminates fail. Foam as the web holding the fibre glass top and bottom flanges or outer and inner skins together is more flexible and with moderate compression resistance allows the skins can move around in relationship to each other, and it is this action that will cause some foam products to fail, turning to powder where it was bonded to the skins.

One major benefit as I learnt through experience, is if water should get into the core through a leaking fitting, then the moisture follows the grain of the balsa, only 10mm of grain meaning that only a very small area will at worst suffer from rot. This can be easily repaired, by removing the damaged area and restoring to new. There is a great method of fitting fixtures to hulls that prevents moisture getting into the core or the boat which I will cover in more detail in a later article.

Duracore uses hardwood veneers as the top flange and bottom of a beam, and the balsa forms the web holding the hardwood skins apart and in position much better due to Balsa's superior compressive properties. Now with a specific designed layup of glass, or Kevlar fibres etc inside and out you have an extremely very strong hull, and it is one that the amateur builder is able to produce with basic tools and mould techniques.

Flange Lessons In Invention Development

Haunted by the memory of all the rejections during the last year and a half, I strained to find meaning at the last tradeshow as I demonstrated the last flange tool design. I was asked the same question for the nth timeby the nth tradesman-"why do they make the flanges like that?" We agreed that the flange design was questionable, but I sensed that he didn't think my tool concepts were the solution to the problem.

Then I had a flash of insight, more importantly, a renewed perspective. My attention centered on the initial design options David and I had discussed at our first meeting. One design was of a flange with a hexagonal-shaped tightening surface. This was the turning point where I realized that I had veered down the wrong path by developing the flange tool of the same shape. A new flange design would offer the Reps and wholesalers a new utility that I was sure they could sell, as it would solve the installation problem for the tradesmen, and allow them to pass on the cost to their customer. My hope was rejuvenated.

I envisioned becoming successful with the first new circulator flange in as many as fifty years. Only now a shadow loomed over it, threatening it in its infancy. My investor surprised me by saying "No more, John!" She had often exclaimed, "Your inventions are all tinker toys!" To her I had also become the boy who cried wolf. I felt this time was different, just as in the tale of the boy and the wolf. Truthfully, I think she knew it, too. She was just being firm in her opposition to spend more money, merely out of principle.

Mary had considered using her 100-acre farm as collateral against a loan to my business early on. She had been ready to bet the farm-literally-but now was far from that liberal way of thinking. I felt hopeless, knowing she had already spent the money from the sale of her house where I had made the original service call roughly a year earlier. She had stayed with me for a year and 30 failed designs, I couldn't expect anything more. I could have begged her, but I had never asked her for money - she had just always known when to contribute in this way. And what if this idea failed too? Mary was 78 then, and her best friend since college had nicknamed her "CW", short for Crazy Woman, many years earlier. Exactly why I'm not certain, but it seems she took a risk in the past, and lost, with some sort of refrigeration business, and I didn't want to give her friend more fodder. Nevertheless, I persisted in explaining the significance of this latest discovery to her from as many angles as seemed relevant. I realized the simplest solutions often are the best ones. And I had to convince her that this flange was my best one. Thankfully, I found several people in the industry to corroborate my belief that I really had invented a "winner" this time around. It was then that I knew I was right. Finally, she believed the flange was a good idea and invested even more money.

I met with David once again and revisited the sketch of the tool/flange that we had made years earlier. We modified the design to include an octagon shaped nut that could be easily gripped by an ordinary wrench. The only significant difference between the flange tool and the new flange was that the tool had a hexagonal nut. It was so simple, like a Post It Noteò. The prior art suggested that nobody had done this with a circulator flange before, so I applied for as many design and utility patents as my lawyer and I could think of. At that time I conjured up nearly 70 ideas for a range of flange designs.

I completed development on four of the designs in a month. It took just a few phone calls, and in an instant I was back on track. Once again the president of the local supply house offered his advice: 'Call the executive vice president of marketing at a Rep firm, Emerson-Swan, Inc., in Massachusetts and ask him what he thinks about the flange.' This firm represented a Rhode Island company, Taco, Inc., a manufacturer of "hydronic" components including circulators and flanges. Taco was the market leader in the region and their products enjoyed high brand loyalty. What I soon learned would delight and amaze me.

I called the VP, and we met two days later in the waiting room of a Mercedes dealership while his car was being serviced. He seemed very impressed with the flanges I showed him, though I had the feeling there was something he wasn't telling me-he seemed too interested. These were such simple low-tech sand castings. I sort of accepted his energy, rationalizing that it was typical to see a person's enthusiasm when they saw my inventions for the first time. But I decided to do a little digging and I am glad I did. I learned that Taco was losing money on their flanges, and were factoring that loss into the sell-price of their circulators. The negative contribution to profit stemmed from increased competition, resulting in the loss of 30% of their market share for flanges. This explained the VP's immediate enthusiasm for a new flange design.

A week had passed, and he stayed true to his word that he would arrange a meeting with Taco. I met with Taco's VP of marketing and a handful of managers at their plant. As expected, their interest level was high, and negotiations began. I was now in for an education in the art of negotiating. The pursuit of success had created immense strife in my personal life, but the pursuit of "a deal" dwarfed my earlier trials.

Negotiations weren't going the way I had naively hoped, so I decided to shop the flange around, realizing that if Taco was interested in the flanges then their competitors might be, too. They were. I discovered that they all had problems with their flanges. This seemed incredulous. It wasn't long before I was on a plane to California to meet with executives from the largest pump manufacturer in the world, Grundfos-all expenses paid. But Taco sold the greatest number of this style of threaded circulator flange in the world, over a million a year. Knowing this helped me determine the total market size, and I seriously considered supplying the market with flanges myself. I made contacts with an array of other manufacturers, Reps and potential investors. I lined up production agreements in case negotiations with the two primary companies fell through. Nonetheless, I pursued them vigorously.

The last thing Taco needed was yet another company competing against them. Therefore, they had the most to lose without my design, and the most to gain with it. They were aware that if they could regain their lost market share with a patent pending flange, a "better mousetrap", then a deal with me made a lot of sense. The fact that they produced so many flanges ensured the possibility of significant royalties for my investor and me, and I was determined to pay her back. So six months later I signed a license agreement with Taco on two flange designs, but not before asking for help one last time from the supply house president, this time with negotiations; I needed a mediator. Taco and I had reached an impasse in negotiations, but once the president agreed to mediate it took just 3 weeks to settle the deal, and the first check, $35,000, was signed to my company.

Since closing the deal, Taco has replaced their old standard with my designs. The "freedom Flanges," as they've named them, are on the market, and the positive response has been nothing short of a consensus. It appears that a new standard has been created. The most often asked question is "Why didn't they do this years ago?" I wish I could collect royalties on my answer to that question. Whenever I hear that question I am reminded of an inspirational statement on a poster in my insurance agent's office: "What we can easily see is only a small percentage of what is possible. Imagination is having the vision to see what is just below the surface; to picture that which is essential, but invisible to the eye." This flange solution was a glaring example of a concept so simple that no one before me considered looking for it. The torturous route that I had taken may have been less grueling and more direct if I had given equal attention to the flange option right from the beginning. Hindsight is so clear. Is it not?

Eight months following completion of the first deal, Taco and I signed a second agreement on three valve inventions. Recently we began discussions on my latest invention ideas.

Seeking to create tools based on a flange design reminds me of the 3M Company's search for a new adhesive. When their engineer pasted a sticky substance on squares of paper, to keep his place in his church hymnal, he had created what would become the Post-It Noteò; as simple an idea as my flange. Another notable inventor, Norm Larson, created 39 chemical formulas to inhibit rust before his 40th proved successful: "Water displacement, 40th attempt" in other words, WD-40?. I became successful with my 30th attempt, though no comparison can be made to the 100 million dollar a year success that WD-40? has become. It seems solutions to certain problems are often discovered before they are recognized as solutions, and it can require carrying an idea through a process of elimination before the successful discovery is made. My plan wasn't to start a one-product company-one-product companies are rarely successful. Although, failing with the tools and succeeding with the flange made it apparent that the simplest designs can often be the most successful. Moreover, I knew little about the market for flanges in the beginning of my journey and didn't think I could compete with Taco's established North American distribution, even with a new flange design. Thankfully, I had come full circle with my journey and was a lot wiser for having taken the trip. With attainment of inventing wisdom my hair has begun to gray, but I no longer need that bath towel.

The invention development process doesn't have to be as difficult as it was for me. I should have done a lot more market research before spending so much money on patent applications, costly patterns and prototypes, production runs, and, generally, spinning my wheels on whimsical ideas. In a perfect world a $10,000 market analysis in the beginning may have helped me choose the path of profit much sooner. I would have discovered there was far greater market potential for flanges than for flange tools. I estimate I might have saved $145,000 if I had bypassed the tool approach and gone directly with the flanges and valves, my last five inventions.

Looking back at my experiences from my present perspective as president emeritus (2000) of New Hampshire Inventors Association, I've concluded that many other inventors are going through the same kind of educational process; I see mostly failure and small successes, as most inventors will have to learn by doing and aren't prepared for what it takes to succeed. Inventors need to have an awareness of the invention development process and its pitfalls. Also, they will need to possess passion and determination and, more importantly, a marketable idea. Moreover, I know the following declaration by Thomas Edison echoes in the minds of other inventors, as it has in mine: "Had I known in advance what I was in for I would not have started!" But I did start, and I finished successfully. I pushed forth with drive and creativity I didn't know I was capable of and beat the odds. 98% of inventors fail, many of them making the same predictable mistakes that I made.

It should be noted that my invention "boot camp," and my ultimate success, would not have been possible without the ongoing faith of my investor. In exchange for her risk-taking Mary will receive a ten percent return on her total investment, plus 40% of royalties from the second license agreement. Most inventors run out of money before they succeed; I would have too if not for Mary. She was not only my Angel, but my savior during my darkest hours of seemingly imminent failure. I'm very thankful that she will be repaid.

An intangible benefit to me is that I've learned more about my capabilities and limitations through this process than through any other personal challenge. In overcoming this challenge I have found the new career path I hoped to discover. I am presently in school completing a degree in business that I started in the 80s and will continue on in engineering-I'm reinvesting my royalties. Ironically, and with any luck, I've invented products for the trade that I may never need to return to and use.

John Rocheleau, known to many of his customers as "The HVAC Guru", has had a broad and diverse career in the Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning and Refrigeration industry (HVACR). He now consults on HVACR issues and serves as Expert Witness in civil Court matters, as well as offers HVAC design service and hands-on service and installations in the New England area.

John Rocheleau has over 50 invention designs, many industry standards. The Taco, Inc. "Freedom Flange" was John's first commercially successful invention and many more were knocked off by competitors such as, Webstone Valves and Watts Industries. John offers consulting on invention development to independent inventors and HVAC manufacturers.