Continuing the audio effects series, again, we all know of audio effects and what they generally are supposed to do. They are used to manipulate audio in ways that are not available with traditional playing and recording techniques. If you’re like me, and enjoy dabbling in audio production, you’re probably familiar with all the basic effects and maybe some other types.
Noise gate will be one of the topics of discussion today. Noise gate, what the heck is that? If that was your first reaction, you’re not alone. Please don’t worry; we will be demystifying this subject later on in the article. We will also be discussing flange, which is a more standard and widely used audio effect. So, in today’s article we will be discussing both noise gate and flange effects, how they work and why they work the way they do.
Noise Gate
Basically, noise gate is a device or software logic that is used to manage the volume of an audio signal, in recording studios and in sound reinforcement. They are also used by musicians, in a portable form, to control amplification noise. At its most simple form it controls noise by only allowing sound to pass through it at a certain set threshold. Think of it as a literal gate; when the gate is open sound can pass, when the gate is closed no signal is allowed through.
More robust noise gate units have extra controls, I.E. attack, sustain, decay, release. This is so that you can further control the gating of your audio. Say you’d like to have the gate applied in a hard fashion, you would set a short attack and a short release, so on and so forth. Noise gates are often used to isolate background noise from live recordings in order to eliminate them from the final copy.
Flange
Flange is related to the phasing effect produced by a, well, phaser effects unit. It is produced when two identical signals are mixed together, with one of the signals time-delayed by a small and gradually changing amount. The amount is usually equal to or less than 20 milliseconds. Peaks and notches are produced in the combined frequency spectrum, related in a linear harmonic series.
Part of the output signal is fed back in and resonates, intensifying the peaks and notches. This effect was originally generated with 3 three headed tape machines. Two of the tape machines would play the signal, obviously somewhat out of synch, and the third tape machine would record the output. The modern version of the effect is created using DSP (digital signal processing) technology.
This is the second part in my continuing series on audio effects. Today we discussed noise gate and flange, we’ll be moving on some more advanced effects later on. I hope that this helped you all understand the basic functionality of these two effects, ultimately making your next foray into audio editing a bit less intimidating.
Thursday 25 February 2010
Tips For Installing Closet Rods
Closet tubing: what you can expect to find
Profiles and sizes
Closet tubing comes in a variety of shapes, sizes, materials, and colors. The most common shapes, or profiles, are round and oval. Round closet rod is sold in 1-1/16 inch diameter tube and 1-5/16 diameter tube. It can be purchased in steel, stainless steel, and aluminum.
Round closet rod generally carries more weight due to the shape of the tube and usually has a thicker wall. While either size is suitable for a closet, for maximum weight bearing capacity use 1-5/16 diameter rod.
Oval tube isn't truly oval in shape but more of an oblong rounded shape with two flat sides. It normally measures 15 x 30 mm or approximately 1-1/8 x 1-1/4 inches. Oval tube is manufactured in steel or aluminum.
Materials
Metal closet rod is available in Steel, Stainless Steel, and Aluminum. Steel is typically sold with a Polished Chrome finish; this is the most common closet rod material and finish. Its advantages are strength and durability at a lower price. Stainless Steel is typically sold with a satin or brushed finish. It offers the strength and durability of steel with the added advantage of rust and corrosion resistance. Stainless steel is ideal for humid and sea-side applications.
Aluminum is sold in a variety of anodized finishes. Anodizing is a process in which electricity is used to produce a hard and durable surface. Aluminum tubing is much lighter in weight but with a similar load bearing capacity to steel.
Evaluate your needs
Length - The first thing you should consider for your installation is the length of the closet rod. The length should be determined by measuring the wall to wall distance. Dry wall often has very slight waves or undulations in it so that the distance between walls may differ from one spot to another. For this reason it's important that you take your wall to wall measurement at the exact spot where the closet rod will be installed. Usually the closet rod is mounted at least 12 inches from the back wall. Having someone help you measure will make the job much easier and give you better results. If you need a closet rod over 8 feet long some profiles and finishes are available in extended lengths up to 12 feet.
Weight bearing needs - Next, decide what kind of clothing will be stored on your closet rod. While a mix of garments is expected in a normal closet, an Arizona wardrobe will be much different from a Minnesota wardrobe. Cold weather clothing will weigh a lot more and that should be taken into consideration. A closet rod in a coat closet will need to support a lot of heavy items while a closet rod in a nursery closet will not need to support much weight at all. Keep in mind that the longer the closet rod the more likely it is to sag when loaded with clothing. Center supports and shelf/rod brackets will keep the closet rod straight. As a general rule, closet rods under 5 feet don't require center support. For longer spans consider using center supports every 3 or 4 feet.
Finish - After the practical needs of your closet are determined you can concentrate on aesthetics. Profile shape, color, and finish should fit the décor of the closet and surrounding room. With so many choices available you should have no problem finding something to suit your taste.
Mounting Flanges
Mounting flange are the supports that attach to the wall and hold your closet rod up. Each type of rod will have mounting flanges made specifically for it but there are common types of flanges used for all tubing. Open flanges are made with the top portion open like a "U" so the closet rod can be easily lifted out. Closed flanges completely encircle the end of the mounted closet rod and do not allow removal without unscrewing the flange from the wall. 32mm pinned flanges are made to work with 32mm systems or European Closet systems. These are closet systems that have pre-drilled holes spaced at 32 millimeters running up and down the closet side panels. While 32mm flanges can also be screwed in place, this isn't necessary and foregoing screws allows adjustment of the closet rod up or down if you wish. 32mm flanges are available for round and oval tubing in open and closed variations.
Accounting for mounting flange space
Since the mounting flange may have a back-plate, the flange you use will determine the cut length of the rod. For instance, if the wall to wall measurement is 60 inches and you are using two open flanges you'll need to subtract ? inch from the total length of the rod. Each open flange has a 1/8 inch back plate. 1/8 + 1/8 = ? inch of space that will occupy the total length of 60 inches. Some closed flanges have an opening all the way through so that your closet rod will actually touch the wall. In this instance the rod itself could actually be 60 inches long. Be sure to find out what space your mounting flanges will take up and factor that into the total length of the application. Each flange has a cuff, the part that encloses and supports the end of the tube. The cuff will be between ? inch and 1 inch deep. Keeping in mind the cuff depth you may want to cut the closet rod just slightly shorter to give yourself some "wiggle room".
Cutting Closet Tubing
While it is possible to cut closet tubing yourself it's usually worth it to pay a cutting charge if that service is provided by your supplier. If you do decide to cut it yourself use a saw blade made for cutting metal. Be sure to use your saw as directed by the manufacturer to prevent accidents!
Installation
Once you have everything measured and cut you may proceed with installation. This step will be easier with some assistance so get a friend to help. You've already made sure that your tubing is adequate for your closet, now you need to make sure that it's firmly and securely mounted in place. The mounting flanges are far more likely to tear loose from the wall than your closet rod is to bend so it's critical that this step is done correctly! If the closet rod is to be attached to dry-wall be sure that it is located so the screws go through the dry-wall and into a wall stud. Dry-wall alone is not sufficient as a mounting surface. If you're unable to screw into a stud, plan on using a wood mounting board on top of the wall. This should be firmly attached to the wall studs and will provide a suitable point of attachment for your mounting flange. If you do use a mounting board remember to subtract its thickness from your wall to wall measurement when determining your closet rod length. Depending on the type of flange you're using, it may be screwed in place before the rod is set or it may need to be slid onto the rod prior to screwing in place.
Using Your Closet
Once everything is in place you can start filling your closet. While metal tubing has a very durable finish it can scratch if used roughly. It's always a good idea to use quality hangers to protect your clothes and your closet rod. Plastic hangers will ensure that the finished surface remains scratch free. Wood and metal hangers are fine just as long as the hook has a smooth finished end. Wire dry cleaning hangers have sharp ends and should be avoided.
Profiles and sizes
Closet tubing comes in a variety of shapes, sizes, materials, and colors. The most common shapes, or profiles, are round and oval. Round closet rod is sold in 1-1/16 inch diameter tube and 1-5/16 diameter tube. It can be purchased in steel, stainless steel, and aluminum.
Round closet rod generally carries more weight due to the shape of the tube and usually has a thicker wall. While either size is suitable for a closet, for maximum weight bearing capacity use 1-5/16 diameter rod.
Oval tube isn't truly oval in shape but more of an oblong rounded shape with two flat sides. It normally measures 15 x 30 mm or approximately 1-1/8 x 1-1/4 inches. Oval tube is manufactured in steel or aluminum.
Materials
Metal closet rod is available in Steel, Stainless Steel, and Aluminum. Steel is typically sold with a Polished Chrome finish; this is the most common closet rod material and finish. Its advantages are strength and durability at a lower price. Stainless Steel is typically sold with a satin or brushed finish. It offers the strength and durability of steel with the added advantage of rust and corrosion resistance. Stainless steel is ideal for humid and sea-side applications.
Aluminum is sold in a variety of anodized finishes. Anodizing is a process in which electricity is used to produce a hard and durable surface. Aluminum tubing is much lighter in weight but with a similar load bearing capacity to steel.
Evaluate your needs
Length - The first thing you should consider for your installation is the length of the closet rod. The length should be determined by measuring the wall to wall distance. Dry wall often has very slight waves or undulations in it so that the distance between walls may differ from one spot to another. For this reason it's important that you take your wall to wall measurement at the exact spot where the closet rod will be installed. Usually the closet rod is mounted at least 12 inches from the back wall. Having someone help you measure will make the job much easier and give you better results. If you need a closet rod over 8 feet long some profiles and finishes are available in extended lengths up to 12 feet.
Weight bearing needs - Next, decide what kind of clothing will be stored on your closet rod. While a mix of garments is expected in a normal closet, an Arizona wardrobe will be much different from a Minnesota wardrobe. Cold weather clothing will weigh a lot more and that should be taken into consideration. A closet rod in a coat closet will need to support a lot of heavy items while a closet rod in a nursery closet will not need to support much weight at all. Keep in mind that the longer the closet rod the more likely it is to sag when loaded with clothing. Center supports and shelf/rod brackets will keep the closet rod straight. As a general rule, closet rods under 5 feet don't require center support. For longer spans consider using center supports every 3 or 4 feet.
Finish - After the practical needs of your closet are determined you can concentrate on aesthetics. Profile shape, color, and finish should fit the décor of the closet and surrounding room. With so many choices available you should have no problem finding something to suit your taste.
Mounting Flanges
Mounting flange are the supports that attach to the wall and hold your closet rod up. Each type of rod will have mounting flanges made specifically for it but there are common types of flanges used for all tubing. Open flanges are made with the top portion open like a "U" so the closet rod can be easily lifted out. Closed flanges completely encircle the end of the mounted closet rod and do not allow removal without unscrewing the flange from the wall. 32mm pinned flanges are made to work with 32mm systems or European Closet systems. These are closet systems that have pre-drilled holes spaced at 32 millimeters running up and down the closet side panels. While 32mm flanges can also be screwed in place, this isn't necessary and foregoing screws allows adjustment of the closet rod up or down if you wish. 32mm flanges are available for round and oval tubing in open and closed variations.
Accounting for mounting flange space
Since the mounting flange may have a back-plate, the flange you use will determine the cut length of the rod. For instance, if the wall to wall measurement is 60 inches and you are using two open flanges you'll need to subtract ? inch from the total length of the rod. Each open flange has a 1/8 inch back plate. 1/8 + 1/8 = ? inch of space that will occupy the total length of 60 inches. Some closed flanges have an opening all the way through so that your closet rod will actually touch the wall. In this instance the rod itself could actually be 60 inches long. Be sure to find out what space your mounting flanges will take up and factor that into the total length of the application. Each flange has a cuff, the part that encloses and supports the end of the tube. The cuff will be between ? inch and 1 inch deep. Keeping in mind the cuff depth you may want to cut the closet rod just slightly shorter to give yourself some "wiggle room".
Cutting Closet Tubing
While it is possible to cut closet tubing yourself it's usually worth it to pay a cutting charge if that service is provided by your supplier. If you do decide to cut it yourself use a saw blade made for cutting metal. Be sure to use your saw as directed by the manufacturer to prevent accidents!
Installation
Once you have everything measured and cut you may proceed with installation. This step will be easier with some assistance so get a friend to help. You've already made sure that your tubing is adequate for your closet, now you need to make sure that it's firmly and securely mounted in place. The mounting flanges are far more likely to tear loose from the wall than your closet rod is to bend so it's critical that this step is done correctly! If the closet rod is to be attached to dry-wall be sure that it is located so the screws go through the dry-wall and into a wall stud. Dry-wall alone is not sufficient as a mounting surface. If you're unable to screw into a stud, plan on using a wood mounting board on top of the wall. This should be firmly attached to the wall studs and will provide a suitable point of attachment for your mounting flange. If you do use a mounting board remember to subtract its thickness from your wall to wall measurement when determining your closet rod length. Depending on the type of flange you're using, it may be screwed in place before the rod is set or it may need to be slid onto the rod prior to screwing in place.
Using Your Closet
Once everything is in place you can start filling your closet. While metal tubing has a very durable finish it can scratch if used roughly. It's always a good idea to use quality hangers to protect your clothes and your closet rod. Plastic hangers will ensure that the finished surface remains scratch free. Wood and metal hangers are fine just as long as the hook has a smooth finished end. Wire dry cleaning hangers have sharp ends and should be avoided.
Disposer Flange And Sink Strainer
The disposer flange and sink strainer includes a strainer unit, a seat, and a mounting flange. The strainer unit comes with a handle, a strainer member, and a plug member while the plug member has a platform and a surrounding wall depending from the platform on which multiple slope guide is located.
The seat used in the disposer flange and sink strainer includes a limiter located at a lower portion of the seat. It also includes a snapping portion at a top of the seat. The seat also includes a stopping surface protruding from and surrounding a middle portion of the seat, and there is also another snapping portion at the bottom of the seat.
The mounting flange in the disposer flange and sink strainer is available at the top end with a flange portion and at a bottom end with a mounting portion. You can also find some units in which the sink strainer may further include a decorative flange having a flange portion and a snapping portion. These portions are dimensioned and configured to abut on, and be engaged with, the flange portion and top-snapping portion of the seat.
It is really a fact that Louis Vuitton always made creative items by the classical legendary Monogram pattern, no matter what they are Louis Vuitton handbags, or watches. Just like the Tambour Diving Lady Watch with dazzling red color.
Bright and elegant, this lady watch is absolutely your perfect accessory for Summer holiday, What's more, it is right for your wrist whether you're in a suit or party dress even the casual jeans. Now, let's check it carefully.
Replacing the sink strainer from the disposer flange and sink strainer is also very simple. The sink strainer is the fitting secured to the sink bowl. The first thing in order to replace the sink strainer is to remove the old one.
Thanks for the diamonds detail, the watch features a truly glamorous look. As for me, I mostly like the bright red rubber strap since it looks so lively and energetic. What about you? In a word, totally a luxurious sprorty design. Best functionality and fabulously designed for best style - I finally realize that why it could become the enduring fashion brand for so many years. What's your opinion?
However, you must keep in mind that you can also find units in which the strainer is held with a large lock nut. There are another type as well that has three screws. Once you have removed the sink strainer, all you have to do is to install the flange that comes with the disposer, applying plumber's putty under its lip to form a seal with the sink bowl.
The seat used in the disposer flange and sink strainer includes a limiter located at a lower portion of the seat. It also includes a snapping portion at a top of the seat. The seat also includes a stopping surface protruding from and surrounding a middle portion of the seat, and there is also another snapping portion at the bottom of the seat.
The mounting flange in the disposer flange and sink strainer is available at the top end with a flange portion and at a bottom end with a mounting portion. You can also find some units in which the sink strainer may further include a decorative flange having a flange portion and a snapping portion. These portions are dimensioned and configured to abut on, and be engaged with, the flange portion and top-snapping portion of the seat.
It is really a fact that Louis Vuitton always made creative items by the classical legendary Monogram pattern, no matter what they are Louis Vuitton handbags, or watches. Just like the Tambour Diving Lady Watch with dazzling red color.
Bright and elegant, this lady watch is absolutely your perfect accessory for Summer holiday, What's more, it is right for your wrist whether you're in a suit or party dress even the casual jeans. Now, let's check it carefully.
Replacing the sink strainer from the disposer flange and sink strainer is also very simple. The sink strainer is the fitting secured to the sink bowl. The first thing in order to replace the sink strainer is to remove the old one.
Thanks for the diamonds detail, the watch features a truly glamorous look. As for me, I mostly like the bright red rubber strap since it looks so lively and energetic. What about you? In a word, totally a luxurious sprorty design. Best functionality and fabulously designed for best style - I finally realize that why it could become the enduring fashion brand for so many years. What's your opinion?
However, you must keep in mind that you can also find units in which the strainer is held with a large lock nut. There are another type as well that has three screws. Once you have removed the sink strainer, all you have to do is to install the flange that comes with the disposer, applying plumber's putty under its lip to form a seal with the sink bowl.
Types of Flanges and How to Flange Pedal Works
Flange are used to connect together pipes or to connect a pipe to a choke, tee, valve or other equipment. There are seven main types of flanges and they come in rectangular, square and round shapes to accommodate a variety of needs and projects.
Lap Joint Flange
For pipes that are frequently taken apart for repair or replacement, lap joint flanges are used. These flanges are used with a universal stub-end insert that is easily rotated and makes it easy to line up bolt holes. This type of flange is used for junctures that do not come in contact with anything flowing through the pipes, which increases their durability and renders them reusable. Caution should be taken not to use lap joint flanges for jobs where high temperatures or high pressure conditions are possible.
Slip-on Flange
Slip-on flanges are thinner than most flanges as they are slid over pipe ends, easily aligned with bolt holes, and then permanently welded into place. Unlike lap joint flanges, they are designed to withstand contact with liquids and can withstand low-pressure atmosphere. They are stronger than other flanges, low cost and dependable at preventing leaks.
Threaded Pipe Flange
This popular type of flange not only comes in a wide range of materials and sizes, it can also be attached to pipes without welding, as it is a threaded flange. Extremely useful in connecting small pipes, it is a low cost flange that can be safely used in highly explosive and high pressure areas of projects and machinery.
Weld Neck Flange
The most popular type of high pressure pipe flange is the weld neck flange. The tapered hub design provides an extremely strong connection and these flanges can be repeatedly manipulated and bent without compromising the quality of the material and/or connection. The weld neck flange is highly resistant to extreme high and low temperatures.
Socket Welding Flange
The socket welding flange was created specifically for small piping that must withstand high pressure and/or contact with chemicals. With expert grinding and welding, socket welding flanges allow the unfettered flow of any type of liquid.
Blind Flanges
These flanges are commonly used to seal or blank off the ends of valves and pipes. They are always round and have bolt holes around their perimeter. They are economical.
Reducing Flange
Some piping system designs require constant changes in pipe diameters to accommodate changing conditions. The reducing flange economically connects different types and sizes of flanges, can endure extreme changes in pressure and are easy to attach.
Creating the Effect
To produce the flanging effect, a flanger pedal mixes two identical signals together from your instrument. One of these signals is then delayed in varying amounts. The delayed track is slowed down very slightly (as if one was gently pushing down on a tape reel as playing and then sped up in order to catch up with the other track. This creates a spinning, sweeping effect like the sound of a jet plane passing overhead.
Delay Amounts
Although flanger pedals delay the copied signal, there is no echo heard. This is because the delay times amount only to the range of one to 10 milliseconds. The human ear can only distinguish an echo if the delay is over about 50 milliseconds. Instead, as the low amounts of delay are used and varied within this tiny range, the listener will only detect the pitch modulation from the delayed track as its signal is read slower (creating a slightly lower pitch) and then faster (for a higher pitch).
Controlling the Sound
Most flange pedals allow you to shape your sound by rotating dials that control the amount of delay added to the delayed signal. This is usually labeled as the "depth" control although on some pedals it will read "mix." The depth level determines how pronounced the notches in the flanger effect will sound. Some pedals also have a sweep depth (sometimes called width) dial to control how noticeable the pitch modulation in your flanger effect will be.
Lap Joint Flange
For pipes that are frequently taken apart for repair or replacement, lap joint flanges are used. These flanges are used with a universal stub-end insert that is easily rotated and makes it easy to line up bolt holes. This type of flange is used for junctures that do not come in contact with anything flowing through the pipes, which increases their durability and renders them reusable. Caution should be taken not to use lap joint flanges for jobs where high temperatures or high pressure conditions are possible.
Slip-on Flange
Slip-on flanges are thinner than most flanges as they are slid over pipe ends, easily aligned with bolt holes, and then permanently welded into place. Unlike lap joint flanges, they are designed to withstand contact with liquids and can withstand low-pressure atmosphere. They are stronger than other flanges, low cost and dependable at preventing leaks.
Threaded Pipe Flange
This popular type of flange not only comes in a wide range of materials and sizes, it can also be attached to pipes without welding, as it is a threaded flange. Extremely useful in connecting small pipes, it is a low cost flange that can be safely used in highly explosive and high pressure areas of projects and machinery.
Weld Neck Flange
The most popular type of high pressure pipe flange is the weld neck flange. The tapered hub design provides an extremely strong connection and these flanges can be repeatedly manipulated and bent without compromising the quality of the material and/or connection. The weld neck flange is highly resistant to extreme high and low temperatures.
Socket Welding Flange
The socket welding flange was created specifically for small piping that must withstand high pressure and/or contact with chemicals. With expert grinding and welding, socket welding flanges allow the unfettered flow of any type of liquid.
Blind Flanges
These flanges are commonly used to seal or blank off the ends of valves and pipes. They are always round and have bolt holes around their perimeter. They are economical.
Reducing Flange
Some piping system designs require constant changes in pipe diameters to accommodate changing conditions. The reducing flange economically connects different types and sizes of flanges, can endure extreme changes in pressure and are easy to attach.
Creating the Effect
To produce the flanging effect, a flanger pedal mixes two identical signals together from your instrument. One of these signals is then delayed in varying amounts. The delayed track is slowed down very slightly (as if one was gently pushing down on a tape reel as playing and then sped up in order to catch up with the other track. This creates a spinning, sweeping effect like the sound of a jet plane passing overhead.
Delay Amounts
Although flanger pedals delay the copied signal, there is no echo heard. This is because the delay times amount only to the range of one to 10 milliseconds. The human ear can only distinguish an echo if the delay is over about 50 milliseconds. Instead, as the low amounts of delay are used and varied within this tiny range, the listener will only detect the pitch modulation from the delayed track as its signal is read slower (creating a slightly lower pitch) and then faster (for a higher pitch).
Controlling the Sound
Most flange pedals allow you to shape your sound by rotating dials that control the amount of delay added to the delayed signal. This is usually labeled as the "depth" control although on some pedals it will read "mix." The depth level determines how pronounced the notches in the flanger effect will sound. Some pedals also have a sweep depth (sometimes called width) dial to control how noticeable the pitch modulation in your flanger effect will be.
Flange Is Useful For Protecting Against Natural Disasters
People can now be protected against a terrifying and destructive storm.
The rectangular-shaped base member features a first end and second end as well as two sides. It also has a thickness and an upstanding flange along the length of each of the two sides. A top surface, a first end surface, a second end surface and a first and second side surfaces define the enclosure.
An aerodynamically stable Storm Shelter was developed by two natives of Lebanon, Missouri. The portable above ground shelter can be adjusted to accommodate a standard sized mobile home. An arch shaped rigid sheet attached permanently to a rectangular shaped base member creates an enclosure for the shelter.
On each end of the shelter, the inventors designed hinged doors to ensure quick and convenient entrance and exit. A failsafe snap locking mechanism is placed on each door, which also has a louvered conduit to make room for ventilation and equalize air pressure. Covers that serve as attachments to each door's exterior surface prevent the louvered conduits from wind damage. The users safety is assured with the help of tie cables, which are tightly connected from one side to the other side over the shelter's top. Inventors use earth anchors and tie rods to secure the tie cables into the ground.
To build the storm shelter, the following materials were used: a rectangular-shaped base member; an enclosure; a rigid arch-shaped sheet member; a first door that forms the storm shelter's first end surface; a second door that forms the storm shelter's second end surface; a first louvered conduit; and a second louvered conduit.
The first door is attached to the base member along the base member's first end to ensure a first access to the storm shelter. An upper aperture and a lower aperture there through are also located in the second door. The second door is also connected to base member along the base member's second. This way, a second access to the storm shelter is provided. The second door also features an upper aperture and lower aperture there through. The first louvered conduit is built in and through the upper aperture in the first door. Finally, a second louvered conduit is built in and through the upper aperture in the second door.
The storm shelter's top surface and the first and the second side surfaces make up the rigid arch-shaped sheet member. The sheet member is placed onto the base member. This way, the sheet member's inner surface is close to the upstanding flange along the length of each of the base member's two sides. Moreover, the sheet member is permanently linked to the base member along the length of each upstanding flange.
The rectangular-shaped base member features a first end and second end as well as two sides. It also has a thickness and an upstanding flange along the length of each of the two sides. A top surface, a first end surface, a second end surface and a first and second side surfaces define the enclosure.
An aerodynamically stable Storm Shelter was developed by two natives of Lebanon, Missouri. The portable above ground shelter can be adjusted to accommodate a standard sized mobile home. An arch shaped rigid sheet attached permanently to a rectangular shaped base member creates an enclosure for the shelter.
On each end of the shelter, the inventors designed hinged doors to ensure quick and convenient entrance and exit. A failsafe snap locking mechanism is placed on each door, which also has a louvered conduit to make room for ventilation and equalize air pressure. Covers that serve as attachments to each door's exterior surface prevent the louvered conduits from wind damage. The users safety is assured with the help of tie cables, which are tightly connected from one side to the other side over the shelter's top. Inventors use earth anchors and tie rods to secure the tie cables into the ground.
To build the storm shelter, the following materials were used: a rectangular-shaped base member; an enclosure; a rigid arch-shaped sheet member; a first door that forms the storm shelter's first end surface; a second door that forms the storm shelter's second end surface; a first louvered conduit; and a second louvered conduit.
The first door is attached to the base member along the base member's first end to ensure a first access to the storm shelter. An upper aperture and a lower aperture there through are also located in the second door. The second door is also connected to base member along the base member's second. This way, a second access to the storm shelter is provided. The second door also features an upper aperture and lower aperture there through. The first louvered conduit is built in and through the upper aperture in the first door. Finally, a second louvered conduit is built in and through the upper aperture in the second door.
The storm shelter's top surface and the first and the second side surfaces make up the rigid arch-shaped sheet member. The sheet member is placed onto the base member. This way, the sheet member's inner surface is close to the upstanding flange along the length of each of the base member's two sides. Moreover, the sheet member is permanently linked to the base member along the length of each upstanding flange.
Wednesday 24 February 2010
Make Sure You Have A Good Flange
Standard flanges of large diameter is not necessarily mate. Andrew Sloley offers a look at Plant Insites column this month.
The system was adding a three-stage vacuum ejector for steam. We would like to discuss with us from time to time by representatives of local suppliers to ensure that the instruction schedule. Everything was expected, as stated in all devices of the system in the near future to supply export and transit to the factory to complete.
Shortly before the ship date, EPR has asked me to ask me for lunch and it was unusual for him. Apparently he wanted something, but I do not know what. My boss told me, less cynical and simply enjoy a good meal. The breakfast was wonderful and went well.
Then, the EPR has gradually come to see me with a statement about a small problem with the equipment of the vacuum system. The purpose of this meal was finally free in nature.
The steam system were three stages of capacitors after each step. Capacitor reduce the load for the next phase of the condensation of the steam engine, steam from the process and the process may be condensed. The first stage is designed with ejector directly related to the first capacitor. Three parallel lines are combined into a single seal drum (also called).
We wanted at least one complete set of soaring in the shop of the seller prior to shipment. This required manufacturers to take delivery of heat and do the installation. The soaring preferred suppliers for each component suppliers to deliver directly to our site. However, she said: Just humor us for at least one laboratory in the file. In the end, we have concluded an agreement to take a train track.
The problem occurred at the meeting. The 30-in. Flange output capacitor of the first phase of mate with 30-in. Intake flange of the condenser. Have been ordered Rush to take the respective flanges and repairs.
The incident took place well before the American Society of Mechanical Engineers (ASME) was launched in 1980, official efforts to develop a single flange for pipe diameters 26 inches and above. Until then, two different models of the flange were common: the standardization of civil manufacturers (MSS) sector of the valve, and the American Petroleum Institute (API).
The MSS-44-Standard for Steel Pipe Line Flanges radically different from the API-605 standard for large diameter steel flanges carbon.
Figure 1 contrasts with the size and layout key for the category 150 of sealing films. Obviously inappropriate. The manufacturer of ejection had used a type of flange and heat had another supplier may be used.
ASME was looking for a single design of the nominal diameter of the tube, 26 inches. 48-in. Brides. Let MSS or API, or both, should be changed to create the model. Neither move would be. So far we have ASME / ANSI standard has two parts. ASME B16.47 Series A offers a the amount of MSS flanges and a series of B corresponding to the flanges API. For class 150 and class 300 (all sizes) and 36-inch and smaller classes, higher than Class 300 Series A and Series B flanges are not compatible.
Thus, while our problem is occurring before the ASME was a single standard does not eliminate the problem. Isolated mismatches continue to provide accurate information, lack of awareness of the Series A or B. Only a few engineers that two possible types of large-diameter flanges are available. If you have a large flange diameter, check what you need to make sure that what you get.
The system was adding a three-stage vacuum ejector for steam. We would like to discuss with us from time to time by representatives of local suppliers to ensure that the instruction schedule. Everything was expected, as stated in all devices of the system in the near future to supply export and transit to the factory to complete.
Shortly before the ship date, EPR has asked me to ask me for lunch and it was unusual for him. Apparently he wanted something, but I do not know what. My boss told me, less cynical and simply enjoy a good meal. The breakfast was wonderful and went well.
Then, the EPR has gradually come to see me with a statement about a small problem with the equipment of the vacuum system. The purpose of this meal was finally free in nature.
The steam system were three stages of capacitors after each step. Capacitor reduce the load for the next phase of the condensation of the steam engine, steam from the process and the process may be condensed. The first stage is designed with ejector directly related to the first capacitor. Three parallel lines are combined into a single seal drum (also called).
We wanted at least one complete set of soaring in the shop of the seller prior to shipment. This required manufacturers to take delivery of heat and do the installation. The soaring preferred suppliers for each component suppliers to deliver directly to our site. However, she said: Just humor us for at least one laboratory in the file. In the end, we have concluded an agreement to take a train track.
The problem occurred at the meeting. The 30-in. Flange output capacitor of the first phase of mate with 30-in. Intake flange of the condenser. Have been ordered Rush to take the respective flanges and repairs.
The incident took place well before the American Society of Mechanical Engineers (ASME) was launched in 1980, official efforts to develop a single flange for pipe diameters 26 inches and above. Until then, two different models of the flange were common: the standardization of civil manufacturers (MSS) sector of the valve, and the American Petroleum Institute (API).
The MSS-44-Standard for Steel Pipe Line Flanges radically different from the API-605 standard for large diameter steel flanges carbon.
Figure 1 contrasts with the size and layout key for the category 150 of sealing films. Obviously inappropriate. The manufacturer of ejection had used a type of flange and heat had another supplier may be used.
ASME was looking for a single design of the nominal diameter of the tube, 26 inches. 48-in. Brides. Let MSS or API, or both, should be changed to create the model. Neither move would be. So far we have ASME / ANSI standard has two parts. ASME B16.47 Series A offers a the amount of MSS flanges and a series of B corresponding to the flanges API. For class 150 and class 300 (all sizes) and 36-inch and smaller classes, higher than Class 300 Series A and Series B flanges are not compatible.
Thus, while our problem is occurring before the ASME was a single standard does not eliminate the problem. Isolated mismatches continue to provide accurate information, lack of awareness of the Series A or B. Only a few engineers that two possible types of large-diameter flanges are available. If you have a large flange diameter, check what you need to make sure that what you get.
How to Move Massive Structures Using Hydraulics
Moving massive structures, in the hundreds or thousands of tons range, special flange methods need to be employed. Specially designed and built hydraulic systems are capable of achieving some amazing results using three techniques, each suitable for different applications. Which to use, depends on a number of factors, but is best illustrated by examining some applications and how those problems were solved.
When offshore drilling rig jackets are built, they’re often built on their sides and then dragged onto a barge for transport out to sea where they are positioned, shoved off the barge to float, then gradually flooded as they’re tugged into position to settle on their pre-cast sub sea bases. Skidding a huge structure up to 25,000 tons to load it on a barge required the use of re-positionable hydraulic jacks. Most often the structure is just dragged along a row of wide flange steel I-beams.
The hydraulic jacks are positioned by either a latching mechanism engaging a hole in the beam of a gripper mechanism that uses hydraulic pressure to clamp on the beam flanges. One or more jacks can then exert their massive push forces on the structure to move it ahead some distance, usually on the order of 4 feet (1 meter.) Once the jacks are fully extended, the gripper disengages or the advancing load relaxed in the case of a latch, so that the jack can then retract and draw the gripper or latch ahead to re-position itself for another push. This inchworm sequence: clamp, push, unclamp, advance is repeated until the structure is moved the desired distance.
The same method, using wide flanged beams as skidding surface, is used to move drill towers about on offshore drilling rigs. In shipyards where ships are built in sections, this method can be used to marry sections together, accurately positioning them to be welded together.
An interesting variation on this technique is used on structures that require many movements, such as the Denver Mile High Stadium east stands. A 16 story tall, 5000 ton section was moved back and forth 165 feet to reposition the section to account for the different sizes and shapes of baseball and football fields. In this case the grippers and jacks were permanently attached to mounts in the ground,, while the wide flange jacking beams were attached to the moving structure. The entire structure was floated on water bearings to reduce the friction and allow it to be moved with minimal effort. This was so successful that a restriction on wind speed had to be imposed to prevent the structure from blowing away when floated on the film of water.
Another technique for moving massive loads has been applied in shipyards to move up to 12,000 ton ships about in the yard. A wheeled train with hydraulic jacks is rolled under the blocked up ship, and the ship lifted using the on-board jacks. A hydraulic gripper and jack system can them be used on the rails to inch-worm the ship along the rail tracks. Instead of gripping on a wide flanged beam, the hydraulic clamp actually grips on a standard train rail, so that off-the-shelf commercially produced rail and track can be employed.
When contemplating moving massive structures, it is prudent to think through the moving method before the civil engineering is done so that accommodations can be made to design the site to best accommodate the function. A number of innovative hydraulic solutions are possible, when faced with this daunting task.
Jeff Spira is a mechanical engineering consultant and runs Spira Engineering specializing not only in design and engineering, but also in tooling, design, process design and quality system consulting. He has been acted as project engineer for a number of hydraulic systems used to move massive structures.
When offshore drilling rig jackets are built, they’re often built on their sides and then dragged onto a barge for transport out to sea where they are positioned, shoved off the barge to float, then gradually flooded as they’re tugged into position to settle on their pre-cast sub sea bases. Skidding a huge structure up to 25,000 tons to load it on a barge required the use of re-positionable hydraulic jacks. Most often the structure is just dragged along a row of wide flange steel I-beams.
The hydraulic jacks are positioned by either a latching mechanism engaging a hole in the beam of a gripper mechanism that uses hydraulic pressure to clamp on the beam flanges. One or more jacks can then exert their massive push forces on the structure to move it ahead some distance, usually on the order of 4 feet (1 meter.) Once the jacks are fully extended, the gripper disengages or the advancing load relaxed in the case of a latch, so that the jack can then retract and draw the gripper or latch ahead to re-position itself for another push. This inchworm sequence: clamp, push, unclamp, advance is repeated until the structure is moved the desired distance.
The same method, using wide flanged beams as skidding surface, is used to move drill towers about on offshore drilling rigs. In shipyards where ships are built in sections, this method can be used to marry sections together, accurately positioning them to be welded together.
An interesting variation on this technique is used on structures that require many movements, such as the Denver Mile High Stadium east stands. A 16 story tall, 5000 ton section was moved back and forth 165 feet to reposition the section to account for the different sizes and shapes of baseball and football fields. In this case the grippers and jacks were permanently attached to mounts in the ground,, while the wide flange jacking beams were attached to the moving structure. The entire structure was floated on water bearings to reduce the friction and allow it to be moved with minimal effort. This was so successful that a restriction on wind speed had to be imposed to prevent the structure from blowing away when floated on the film of water.
Another technique for moving massive loads has been applied in shipyards to move up to 12,000 ton ships about in the yard. A wheeled train with hydraulic jacks is rolled under the blocked up ship, and the ship lifted using the on-board jacks. A hydraulic gripper and jack system can them be used on the rails to inch-worm the ship along the rail tracks. Instead of gripping on a wide flanged beam, the hydraulic clamp actually grips on a standard train rail, so that off-the-shelf commercially produced rail and track can be employed.
When contemplating moving massive structures, it is prudent to think through the moving method before the civil engineering is done so that accommodations can be made to design the site to best accommodate the function. A number of innovative hydraulic solutions are possible, when faced with this daunting task.
Jeff Spira is a mechanical engineering consultant and runs Spira Engineering specializing not only in design and engineering, but also in tooling, design, process design and quality system consulting. He has been acted as project engineer for a number of hydraulic systems used to move massive structures.
The Important Of Flange In Our Life
Our garages have fast become one of the most important places in our homes. Just like the basement, the garage has gone from a place where we might store a few things, but otherwise neglect, to becoming a vitally important workshop, TV room, and laundry room.
Keeping our garage warm is much more important today than it used to be. If you are looking for ways to save on your energy bill, you may want to consider installing some weather stripping. It should only take you a few minutes and you won't need a hardware store full of tools, either.
First off, you will have to choose the right weather stripping for your particular garage door. The average hardware store has a stunning number of choices, but the two that you want to pick are the bottom door gasket and a flange style stripping that goes around the outside of the door. The flange style stripping is fairly easy to find. It often comes in two varieties one with dual flexible sides and one that has a hard side and a flexible side that looks a lot like wood moulding.
If your garage door has a bottom channel that allows for old weather stripping to be slid out and new weather stripping to be slid in, it only takes a second to replace the old with the new. If your door doesn't have such a channel, open your door to a comfortable working height and use a 2x4 to keep it open. If your door is made out of wood, you want to seal it, so consider adding a coat of sealant before you nail on the new stripping. Cut out the piece of stripping and be sure that you attach it with the thick side out. Use roofing nails to attach the stripping, or just use the nails that come with the kit you bought.
Before you attach the stripping to the sides, you need to be very careful and measure out how much space you have. The last thing you want is to nail in all of this weather stripping only to find out you can't even close your door any longer. Once you have everything measured out, use roofing nails or the nails that came with your kit to fit everything into place. Make sure you test the door several times during this process to ensure that you don't have to do everything over.
Here are some final tips before you finish up. Make a point of checking on your garage door weather stripping in a few days after installation. You want to make sure that nothing is getting in the way of the garage door opening or closing. It isn't that weather stripping is so expensive you can't just replace a piece if you have a problem, but you need to look out for the motor so that you aren't putting too much stress on it every time you leave your home. Done correctly, good garage door weather stripping can save you considerable cash on your next heating bill.
This article brought to you by Denver's Choice Overhead Door Co. Denver's Choice Overhead Garage Door Company has become the number one choice for Denver's garage door needs. We specialize in repairs of existing and sales of new garage doors and garage door openers!
Keeping our garage warm is much more important today than it used to be. If you are looking for ways to save on your energy bill, you may want to consider installing some weather stripping. It should only take you a few minutes and you won't need a hardware store full of tools, either.
First off, you will have to choose the right weather stripping for your particular garage door. The average hardware store has a stunning number of choices, but the two that you want to pick are the bottom door gasket and a flange style stripping that goes around the outside of the door. The flange style stripping is fairly easy to find. It often comes in two varieties one with dual flexible sides and one that has a hard side and a flexible side that looks a lot like wood moulding.
If your garage door has a bottom channel that allows for old weather stripping to be slid out and new weather stripping to be slid in, it only takes a second to replace the old with the new. If your door doesn't have such a channel, open your door to a comfortable working height and use a 2x4 to keep it open. If your door is made out of wood, you want to seal it, so consider adding a coat of sealant before you nail on the new stripping. Cut out the piece of stripping and be sure that you attach it with the thick side out. Use roofing nails to attach the stripping, or just use the nails that come with the kit you bought.
Before you attach the stripping to the sides, you need to be very careful and measure out how much space you have. The last thing you want is to nail in all of this weather stripping only to find out you can't even close your door any longer. Once you have everything measured out, use roofing nails or the nails that came with your kit to fit everything into place. Make sure you test the door several times during this process to ensure that you don't have to do everything over.
Here are some final tips before you finish up. Make a point of checking on your garage door weather stripping in a few days after installation. You want to make sure that nothing is getting in the way of the garage door opening or closing. It isn't that weather stripping is so expensive you can't just replace a piece if you have a problem, but you need to look out for the motor so that you aren't putting too much stress on it every time you leave your home. Done correctly, good garage door weather stripping can save you considerable cash on your next heating bill.
This article brought to you by Denver's Choice Overhead Door Co. Denver's Choice Overhead Garage Door Company has become the number one choice for Denver's garage door needs. We specialize in repairs of existing and sales of new garage doors and garage door openers!
Tuesday 23 February 2010
Flange's Definition
A flange is an external or internal rib, or rim (lip), for strength, as the flange of an iron beam or I-beam (or a T-beam); or for a guide, as the flange of a train wheel; or for attachment to another object, as the flange on the end of a pipe, steam cylinder, etc, or on the lens mount of a camera. Thus a flanged rail is a rail with a flange on one side to keep wheels, etc., from running off. The term "flange" is also used for a kind of tool used to form flanges. By using flanges, pipes can be assembled or disassembled very easily.
Plumbing or Piping
Although flange generally refers to the actual raised rim or lip of a fitting, many flanged plumbing fittings are themselves known as 'flanges':
Surrey FlangeCommon flanges used in plumbing are the Surrey flange or Danzey flange, York flange, Sussex flange and Essex flange. Surrey and York flanges fit to the top of the hot water tank allowing all the water to be taken without disturbance to the tank. They are often used to ensure an even flow of water to showers. An Essex flange requires a hole to be drilled in the side of the tank.
There is also a Warix flange which is the same as a York flange but the shower output is on the top of the flange and the vent on the side. The York and Warix flange have female adapters so that they fit onto a male tank, whereas the Surrey flange connects to a female tank.
A closet flange provides the mount for a toilet.
Pipe flanges
There are many different flange standards to be found worldwide. To allow easy functionality and inter-changeability, these are designed to have standardised dimensions. Common world standards include ASA/ANSI (USA), PN/DIN (European), BS10 (British/Australian), and JIS/KS (Japanese/Korean).
ANSI designations such as ANSI 150, ANSI 300 and so on are often followed by a # (hash symbol). The ANSI number does not directly relate to a pressure rating, but to a class of flange. For example, the hash (#) or 'pound' reference; e.g. 300 pound, can be misleading in that an ANSI 300 flange is actually rated for a test pressure of 740 psi (~5100 kPa), and only within a certain working temperature range (-20 to 100 deg F.)
In most cases these are not interchangeable (e.g. an ANSI flange will not mate against a JIS flange). Further many of the flanges in each standard are divided into "pressure classes", allowing flanges to be capable of taking different pressure ratings. Again these are not generally interchangeable (e.g. an ANSI 150 will not mate with an ANSI 300). These "pressure classes" also have differing pressure and temperature ratings for different materials. "Pressure Classes" of piping are usually developed for a process plant or power generating station; these "pressure classes" may be unique to the specific corporation, Engineering Procurement and Construction (EPC) contractor, or the process plant owner.
The flange faces are made to standardized dimensions and are typically "flat face", "raised face", "tongue and groove", or "ring joint" styles, although other obscure styles are possible.
Flange designs are available as "welding neck", "slip-on", "boss", "lap joint", "socket weld", "threaded", and also "blind".
ASME standards (U.S.)
Pipe flanges that are made to standards called out by ASME B16.5 or ASME B16.47 are typically made from forged materials and have machined surfaces. B16.5 refers to nominal pipe sizes (NPS) from 1/2 to 24. B16.47 covers NPSs from 26 to 60. Each specification further delineates flanges into classes 150, 300, 400, 600, 900, 1500 and 2500 for B16.5. B16.47 delineates its flanges into classes 75, 150, 300, 400, 600, 900.
The gasket type and bolt type are generally specified by the standard(s); however, sometimes the standards refer to the ASME Boiler and Pressure Vessel Code (B&PVC) for details (see ASME Code Section VIII Division 1 - Appendix 2). These flanges are recognized by ASME Pipe Codes such as ASME B31.1 Power Piping, and ASME B31.3 Process Piping.
Materials for flanges are usually under ASME designation: SA-105 (Specification for Carbon Steel Forgings for Piping Applications) , SA-266 (Specification for Carbon Steel Forgings for Pressure Vessel Components) or SA-182 (Specification for Forged or Rolled Alloy-Steel Pipe Flanges, Forged Fittings, and Valves and Parts for High-Temperature Service). In addition, there are many "industry standard" flanges that in some circumstance may be used on ASME work.
Other countries
Flanges in other countries also are manufactured according to the standards for materials, pressure ratings, etc. Such standards include DIN, and/or ISO standards.
Plumbing or Piping
Although flange generally refers to the actual raised rim or lip of a fitting, many flanged plumbing fittings are themselves known as 'flanges':
Surrey FlangeCommon flanges used in plumbing are the Surrey flange or Danzey flange, York flange, Sussex flange and Essex flange. Surrey and York flanges fit to the top of the hot water tank allowing all the water to be taken without disturbance to the tank. They are often used to ensure an even flow of water to showers. An Essex flange requires a hole to be drilled in the side of the tank.
There is also a Warix flange which is the same as a York flange but the shower output is on the top of the flange and the vent on the side. The York and Warix flange have female adapters so that they fit onto a male tank, whereas the Surrey flange connects to a female tank.
A closet flange provides the mount for a toilet.
Pipe flanges
There are many different flange standards to be found worldwide. To allow easy functionality and inter-changeability, these are designed to have standardised dimensions. Common world standards include ASA/ANSI (USA), PN/DIN (European), BS10 (British/Australian), and JIS/KS (Japanese/Korean).
ANSI designations such as ANSI 150, ANSI 300 and so on are often followed by a # (hash symbol). The ANSI number does not directly relate to a pressure rating, but to a class of flange. For example, the hash (#) or 'pound' reference; e.g. 300 pound, can be misleading in that an ANSI 300 flange is actually rated for a test pressure of 740 psi (~5100 kPa), and only within a certain working temperature range (-20 to 100 deg F.)
In most cases these are not interchangeable (e.g. an ANSI flange will not mate against a JIS flange). Further many of the flanges in each standard are divided into "pressure classes", allowing flanges to be capable of taking different pressure ratings. Again these are not generally interchangeable (e.g. an ANSI 150 will not mate with an ANSI 300). These "pressure classes" also have differing pressure and temperature ratings for different materials. "Pressure Classes" of piping are usually developed for a process plant or power generating station; these "pressure classes" may be unique to the specific corporation, Engineering Procurement and Construction (EPC) contractor, or the process plant owner.
The flange faces are made to standardized dimensions and are typically "flat face", "raised face", "tongue and groove", or "ring joint" styles, although other obscure styles are possible.
Flange designs are available as "welding neck", "slip-on", "boss", "lap joint", "socket weld", "threaded", and also "blind".
ASME standards (U.S.)
Pipe flanges that are made to standards called out by ASME B16.5 or ASME B16.47 are typically made from forged materials and have machined surfaces. B16.5 refers to nominal pipe sizes (NPS) from 1/2 to 24. B16.47 covers NPSs from 26 to 60. Each specification further delineates flanges into classes 150, 300, 400, 600, 900, 1500 and 2500 for B16.5. B16.47 delineates its flanges into classes 75, 150, 300, 400, 600, 900.
The gasket type and bolt type are generally specified by the standard(s); however, sometimes the standards refer to the ASME Boiler and Pressure Vessel Code (B&PVC) for details (see ASME Code Section VIII Division 1 - Appendix 2). These flanges are recognized by ASME Pipe Codes such as ASME B31.1 Power Piping, and ASME B31.3 Process Piping.
Materials for flanges are usually under ASME designation: SA-105 (Specification for Carbon Steel Forgings for Piping Applications) , SA-266 (Specification for Carbon Steel Forgings for Pressure Vessel Components) or SA-182 (Specification for Forged or Rolled Alloy-Steel Pipe Flanges, Forged Fittings, and Valves and Parts for High-Temperature Service). In addition, there are many "industry standard" flanges that in some circumstance may be used on ASME work.
Other countries
Flanges in other countries also are manufactured according to the standards for materials, pressure ratings, etc. Such standards include DIN, and/or ISO standards.
Guide to Model Train Set Wheels - Plastic vs Metal
A model train set can have either plastic or metal wheels. Understanding model train wheel-set construction is important when considering which type of wheels is best for you.
A train wheel consists of a flange and a tread. The flange is the inside part of the wheel and is deeper (or longer) than the other. The tread is the flat portion that actually rides on the rail. (Real trains have the same type flange and tread manufacture.) Some wheels are mounted on an adjustable axle, which allows for some rotation of the wheels. In actuality, this two-part design of the wheel and axle is called the wheel-set. Some trains have plastic wheel-sets and some have metal wheel-sets, while still others use a combination of plastic and metal to create the wheel-set.
Plastic wheel-sets pick up an electrical charge because they are nonconductive, creating a static charge, much like static electricity in a house. This static electricity causes the wheel-sets to Since the plastic wheel-sets do not conduct electricity, there is the potential for less shorting out during your model trains operation.
Plastic wheels may become pitted due to wear and tear, causing eventual replacement of the wheels. Plastic wheels are typically quieter than metal wheels, so your train set can operate with little external sound. Usually plastic wheels can be easily cleaned by wiping them with a facial tissue.
Oiling plastic wheels is tricky in that too much oil causes the train to drag and demands more cleaning. Too little oil prevents the wheels from rolling smoothly.
The black plastic metal wheel sets may provide a more authentic look, as real train wheels are usually black.
Metal wheel-sets weigh a bit more than a plastic wheel-set, which can provide added stability to the model train set on its track, especially around curves and on grades. This means the train could sit more steadily on the track. Metal wheels could increase the train’s pulling capacity due to the added weight.
Metal wheel-sets provide a more realistic sounding clickety-clack that you would hear on a real train.
Metal wheel-sets provide a smoother operation, according to some National Model Railroad Association (NMRA) enthusiasts. A model train with metal wheels generally keeps the track cleaner and doesn’t require cleaning as often as plastic wheel-sets.
The silver color on metal wheel-sets provides a brightness that can help make your train set look new, even if it’s many years old.
If you are unsure of your flange preference between plastic and metal, you should experiment with both. Keep a log of noise, cleaning frequency, and derailments; all of these items can help you determine the best choice of wheel-sets for your individual train set. You may find that some train cars perform better with plastic wheel-sets and others with metal wheel-sets. The main goal is your overall enjoyment and ease of caring for your train set.
A train wheel consists of a flange and a tread. The flange is the inside part of the wheel and is deeper (or longer) than the other. The tread is the flat portion that actually rides on the rail. (Real trains have the same type flange and tread manufacture.) Some wheels are mounted on an adjustable axle, which allows for some rotation of the wheels. In actuality, this two-part design of the wheel and axle is called the wheel-set. Some trains have plastic wheel-sets and some have metal wheel-sets, while still others use a combination of plastic and metal to create the wheel-set.
Plastic wheel-sets pick up an electrical charge because they are nonconductive, creating a static charge, much like static electricity in a house. This static electricity causes the wheel-sets to Since the plastic wheel-sets do not conduct electricity, there is the potential for less shorting out during your model trains operation.
Plastic wheels may become pitted due to wear and tear, causing eventual replacement of the wheels. Plastic wheels are typically quieter than metal wheels, so your train set can operate with little external sound. Usually plastic wheels can be easily cleaned by wiping them with a facial tissue.
Oiling plastic wheels is tricky in that too much oil causes the train to drag and demands more cleaning. Too little oil prevents the wheels from rolling smoothly.
The black plastic metal wheel sets may provide a more authentic look, as real train wheels are usually black.
Metal wheel-sets weigh a bit more than a plastic wheel-set, which can provide added stability to the model train set on its track, especially around curves and on grades. This means the train could sit more steadily on the track. Metal wheels could increase the train’s pulling capacity due to the added weight.
Metal wheel-sets provide a more realistic sounding clickety-clack that you would hear on a real train.
Metal wheel-sets provide a smoother operation, according to some National Model Railroad Association (NMRA) enthusiasts. A model train with metal wheels generally keeps the track cleaner and doesn’t require cleaning as often as plastic wheel-sets.
The silver color on metal wheel-sets provides a brightness that can help make your train set look new, even if it’s many years old.
If you are unsure of your flange preference between plastic and metal, you should experiment with both. Keep a log of noise, cleaning frequency, and derailments; all of these items can help you determine the best choice of wheel-sets for your individual train set. You may find that some train cars perform better with plastic wheel-sets and others with metal wheel-sets. The main goal is your overall enjoyment and ease of caring for your train set.
How To Use Flange Effects In Adobe Audition 3.0
The word "flange" may have been invented by John Lennon, as he asked producer George Martin repeatedly to "add some flange" to certain tracks--and George Martin would oblige by simply pressing his finger to the rolling tape, creating the iconic effect.
Since those days, flange effects have become far more technical, and they're still just as cool and fun to use. Here's a quick guide to using flange effects in Adobe's Audition 3.0 software.
1. Adding Flange - Adding the flange effect is very easy. Open up the Mixer (Alt + 2) from the multitrack view and find the track that you want to add the flange effect to. You'll see a little area marked "FX", and some blank areas where you can add effects. Hit the arrow to the right and scroll to the effect menu marked "modulation." The flange effect is second on this menu, in between Chorus and Sweeping Phaser, two effects that are alter the sound of your recordings in a similar fashion.
2. Choosing a Preset - Once you select the flange effect, Adobe Audition will bring up the menu for that effect, and in the upper part of the screen is a drop down menu with a variety of presets. These are a great place for the beginner to start, as they're pre-arranged settings for the effect that will show you what the flange effect in Audition is capable of.
Try some of the subtler effects to add just a bit of life to your recordings, or the "Haight-Ashbury" and similar presets to really kick the flange into gear. These more extreme effects will often throw off the intonation of individual tracks, so experiment all you want but be careful not to overdo it.
3. Altering Settings - You can also alter the settings yourself, and as you get more experienced with the flange effect you'll be doing this more and more. The controls are simple to understand. You've got Initial and Final Delay time, which alter the delay that the flange effect adds in (set them to zero to avoid a delay, though most flange effects use at least a slight delay).
Stereo phasing moves the sound around the listener's head, and it's probably the most fun setting to switch to the extremes. Feedback is feedback, and the modulation rate speeds the flange up or slows it down. Experiment as much as you can to get a feel for the controls and to help you pick a flange effect that works with the song or sounds that you've recorded. Adobe Audition 3.0 may slow down a bit when flange effects are added, especially on slower computers, so you may want to stop playback by hitting the spacebar before changing the settings on the Flanger effect.
Since those days, flange effects have become far more technical, and they're still just as cool and fun to use. Here's a quick guide to using flange effects in Adobe's Audition 3.0 software.
1. Adding Flange - Adding the flange effect is very easy. Open up the Mixer (Alt + 2) from the multitrack view and find the track that you want to add the flange effect to. You'll see a little area marked "FX", and some blank areas where you can add effects. Hit the arrow to the right and scroll to the effect menu marked "modulation." The flange effect is second on this menu, in between Chorus and Sweeping Phaser, two effects that are alter the sound of your recordings in a similar fashion.
2. Choosing a Preset - Once you select the flange effect, Adobe Audition will bring up the menu for that effect, and in the upper part of the screen is a drop down menu with a variety of presets. These are a great place for the beginner to start, as they're pre-arranged settings for the effect that will show you what the flange effect in Audition is capable of.
Try some of the subtler effects to add just a bit of life to your recordings, or the "Haight-Ashbury" and similar presets to really kick the flange into gear. These more extreme effects will often throw off the intonation of individual tracks, so experiment all you want but be careful not to overdo it.
3. Altering Settings - You can also alter the settings yourself, and as you get more experienced with the flange effect you'll be doing this more and more. The controls are simple to understand. You've got Initial and Final Delay time, which alter the delay that the flange effect adds in (set them to zero to avoid a delay, though most flange effects use at least a slight delay).
Stereo phasing moves the sound around the listener's head, and it's probably the most fun setting to switch to the extremes. Feedback is feedback, and the modulation rate speeds the flange up or slows it down. Experiment as much as you can to get a feel for the controls and to help you pick a flange effect that works with the song or sounds that you've recorded. Adobe Audition 3.0 may slow down a bit when flange effects are added, especially on slower computers, so you may want to stop playback by hitting the spacebar before changing the settings on the Flanger effect.
Monday 22 February 2010
Line Six Liqua Flange Pedal For Guitar
Flange is a weird effect. It is not always fitting for a lot of music. I think a lot of guitar players have trouble trying to determine where the effects best fits in with their sound. Instead of the direct punch and obviousness of other effects, flange is an overlay that tampers with the frequencies surrounding your signal.
On really loud, humming amplifiers, you can actually hear the flange effect from a lot of pedals. It will waver up and down and up and down through the buzz that the amp is making. It is a very powerful effect. It may take some getting used to. If you have a good enough device and a decent understanding of how it can be used, I think it can be one of the best pedals out there. A few bands have actually mastered the art of using it constantly.
These bands generally sound dreamy and ambient all the time. The flange pedal, without being overbearing, really creates the dimension that makes a lot of these bands sound memorable. If you have ever heard of Slowdive, My Bloody Valentine, or School of Seven Bells, you will hear (the slower songs especially) huge waves of flange over everything from guitar to bass to cymbals. You have to find the right device to have on board with you. Once you figure out the sound you are going for, you're golden.
The Line 6 Liqua Flange is one of the best units I have come across. It has controls for Speed, Depth, Feedback, Time and Mode Selector. The Mode actually lets you sift through 11 different wave formations to find which one suits you most perfectly. There is a Model switch that lets you choose either Digital, Liquid, or Analog.
With ease of use, affordability, and premium sound quality, it is a wonder to me that I do not see more of these on stages across America.
There is also another switch for polarity with negative and positive options. One cool thing about this Line 6 model that a lot of others do not include is tap temp. If you need the wavering of your flange to be in perfect time, fear not. You now have a classy, hands free way to keep it all in line.
On really loud, humming amplifiers, you can actually hear the flange effect from a lot of pedals. It will waver up and down and up and down through the buzz that the amp is making. It is a very powerful effect. It may take some getting used to. If you have a good enough device and a decent understanding of how it can be used, I think it can be one of the best pedals out there. A few bands have actually mastered the art of using it constantly.
These bands generally sound dreamy and ambient all the time. The flange pedal, without being overbearing, really creates the dimension that makes a lot of these bands sound memorable. If you have ever heard of Slowdive, My Bloody Valentine, or School of Seven Bells, you will hear (the slower songs especially) huge waves of flange over everything from guitar to bass to cymbals. You have to find the right device to have on board with you. Once you figure out the sound you are going for, you're golden.
The Line 6 Liqua Flange is one of the best units I have come across. It has controls for Speed, Depth, Feedback, Time and Mode Selector. The Mode actually lets you sift through 11 different wave formations to find which one suits you most perfectly. There is a Model switch that lets you choose either Digital, Liquid, or Analog.
With ease of use, affordability, and premium sound quality, it is a wonder to me that I do not see more of these on stages across America.
There is also another switch for polarity with negative and positive options. One cool thing about this Line 6 model that a lot of others do not include is tap temp. If you need the wavering of your flange to be in perfect time, fear not. You now have a classy, hands free way to keep it all in line.
Guide To Flange Effect And It's Parameters
Flange is commonly known as the ''jet plane effect'' to the masses, and it's sound has been a popular staple since the 60s. It can be used on any instrument imaginable, from vocals to guitar to drums. Flange at it's core is simply a delay effect with the delay parameter set at a very small amount. With today's technology, producing this sound manually is easy as pie.
The customization features on modern flanging units is unparalleled. Dialing in a signature flange style has never been so easy, but it's important to understand the functions of each parameter and why it works the way it does.
The common delay setting to achieve flange with a delay unit are 20 milliseconds and under. Instead of hearing the actual signal being delayed, they will blend together to make a ''jet plane effect'' sound. The reason this happens is when two identical signals overlap each other, some frequencies are ''canceled out''.
Let's go over the parameters that are usually on flanging units.
Parameter One - Delay : This parameter changes the time it takes for the second signal to play after the original. Most times the highest setting will not be more than 20 milliseconds, as mentioned above. In some cases, the delay setting can be to to a negative value to create interesting ambient effects as well.
Parameter Two - Depth : This parameter functions as the control for the ''warble'' of the flange effect. That is, the severity of the changes in pitch.
Parameter Three - Width : This parameter is somewhat similar to Depth, but has a noticeable difference to the ear. It controls the speed at which the peaks and valleys of the flange are reached.
Parameter Four - Rate : This parameter controls the rate at which the warbles repeat themselves. The faster the speed, the faster your audio signal will go through the complete flange process.
Parameter Five - LFO : This parameter isn't on older flange units but is found on more recent software flanges. They enable you to alter the output of the wave in accordance to the flange. The four possible settings are sine, square, saw, and triangle.
Parameter Six - Feedback : Now we're talking. Feedback loops the output signal back into the input, creating a possibly infinite amount of noise. This results in many strange effects, especially in higher settings. If you're using headphones, be sure to keep the volume low before you experiment with this parameter.
This concludes the guide to flange. As always, experiment and use your ear!
The customization features on modern flanging units is unparalleled. Dialing in a signature flange style has never been so easy, but it's important to understand the functions of each parameter and why it works the way it does.
The common delay setting to achieve flange with a delay unit are 20 milliseconds and under. Instead of hearing the actual signal being delayed, they will blend together to make a ''jet plane effect'' sound. The reason this happens is when two identical signals overlap each other, some frequencies are ''canceled out''.
Let's go over the parameters that are usually on flanging units.
Parameter One - Delay : This parameter changes the time it takes for the second signal to play after the original. Most times the highest setting will not be more than 20 milliseconds, as mentioned above. In some cases, the delay setting can be to to a negative value to create interesting ambient effects as well.
Parameter Two - Depth : This parameter functions as the control for the ''warble'' of the flange effect. That is, the severity of the changes in pitch.
Parameter Three - Width : This parameter is somewhat similar to Depth, but has a noticeable difference to the ear. It controls the speed at which the peaks and valleys of the flange are reached.
Parameter Four - Rate : This parameter controls the rate at which the warbles repeat themselves. The faster the speed, the faster your audio signal will go through the complete flange process.
Parameter Five - LFO : This parameter isn't on older flange units but is found on more recent software flanges. They enable you to alter the output of the wave in accordance to the flange. The four possible settings are sine, square, saw, and triangle.
Parameter Six - Feedback : Now we're talking. Feedback loops the output signal back into the input, creating a possibly infinite amount of noise. This results in many strange effects, especially in higher settings. If you're using headphones, be sure to keep the volume low before you experiment with this parameter.
This concludes the guide to flange. As always, experiment and use your ear!
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